The Desert Leopard Gecko, one of our favorite reptile pets, originally came to us from the desert areas of India, Pakistan, Iran, Iraq and Afghanistan.
Habitat
They thrive in the arid desert grasslands among rocks and crevasses, eating whatever insect happens by and licking limestone and other rocks for dew and calcium.
They are nocturnal, hiding during the day from the hot sun and predatory birds and animals.
Markings
The hatchlings start out with broad stripes across their bodies that fade with each shed and become leopard like spots after about six months of age. The desert Leopard Gecko gets its name from the adult markings we are so familiar with today. These adult markings and coloration help them blend in with their rocky terrain.
Unique Qualities
The Desert Leopard Gecko has a thick tail that stores fat and water for times of need. But if a predator grabs it by the tail, the body and tail separate. While the Gecko heads for safety, the predator is left with a still-wiggling tail to hold its attention.
They are readily adaptable to life as a pet, becoming tame in a short amount of time, and willing to be handled even by children. They will eat straight from your hand, but can be left to their own device for a couple of days without any harm done.
Pet Qualities
The Leopard Gecko has grown popular as a pet for good reason. They are:
• Easily tamed, even as adults
• Easy to care for
• Low maintenance
• Hearty
• Long lived - 10-20 years
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "Gecko Care Made Easy," teaches Gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptile.
http://www.reptilegecko.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Turtle Care - How to Care For Your Turtle
If you are considering getting a turtle to keep as a pet, there are a few items you must be willing to acquire and a number of things everyone interested in turtles should know.
Knowledge of the basics of turtle care is a must. When looking for a tank to use for a turtle habitat it needs to be at least 40 gallons. The best way to estimate tank size is to remember that standard requirement for turtles is 15 gallons of tank per inch of turtle. Turtles can also grow three to four times the size they are when they are first purchased.
Turtles also need both land and water to survive, they also require a sun lamp to help them absorb enough vitamin D3 in the winter months if kept indoors.
When handling turtles make sure to wash your hands right afterwards as some turtles are salmonella carriers. This is another reason to make sure to keep your turtles' tank clean with fresh water. This means cleaning it at least once a week to once every other week at the most.
It is also necessary to have an excellent filter system to help keep the tank clean and the turtle happy and healthy, this is because normal tap water in urban areas contains chlorine and fluoride and can disrupt the pH balance in the tank. Letting tap water sit out overnight before putting it in the tank will cause the chlorine to dissipate.
When preparing a turtle enclosure it is better to stay away from using gravel or wood chips to decorate a turtle tank. Uneaten food and waste can collect in the gravel and create an environment that harbors disease when it comes to good turtle care and wood chips are a great place for mold spores to grow.
The other reason is that turtles may try and eat these causing digestion problems. This also applies to any plants added to the tank that need to be non-toxic to a turtle as they may try and eat them. Many normal garden plants can poison turtles.
When considering building the ideal turtle environment, your commitment in providing ongoing turtle care for many years needs to be considered.
All the equipment to properly raise a healthy turtle is not cheap and that needs to be looked at before making a final decision regarding taking on a turtle as a pet. Turtles can live for decades and make great family pet if these concerns are taken care of and anticipated before purchasing a turtle.
H (John) Tucker has a keen interest in pets especially turtles and tortoises. They do make great pets but are a big commitment especially as they can live for many years. Find out more about turtle care.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=H_Tucker
Knowledge of the basics of turtle care is a must. When looking for a tank to use for a turtle habitat it needs to be at least 40 gallons. The best way to estimate tank size is to remember that standard requirement for turtles is 15 gallons of tank per inch of turtle. Turtles can also grow three to four times the size they are when they are first purchased.
Turtles also need both land and water to survive, they also require a sun lamp to help them absorb enough vitamin D3 in the winter months if kept indoors.
When handling turtles make sure to wash your hands right afterwards as some turtles are salmonella carriers. This is another reason to make sure to keep your turtles' tank clean with fresh water. This means cleaning it at least once a week to once every other week at the most.
It is also necessary to have an excellent filter system to help keep the tank clean and the turtle happy and healthy, this is because normal tap water in urban areas contains chlorine and fluoride and can disrupt the pH balance in the tank. Letting tap water sit out overnight before putting it in the tank will cause the chlorine to dissipate.
When preparing a turtle enclosure it is better to stay away from using gravel or wood chips to decorate a turtle tank. Uneaten food and waste can collect in the gravel and create an environment that harbors disease when it comes to good turtle care and wood chips are a great place for mold spores to grow.
The other reason is that turtles may try and eat these causing digestion problems. This also applies to any plants added to the tank that need to be non-toxic to a turtle as they may try and eat them. Many normal garden plants can poison turtles.
When considering building the ideal turtle environment, your commitment in providing ongoing turtle care for many years needs to be considered.
All the equipment to properly raise a healthy turtle is not cheap and that needs to be looked at before making a final decision regarding taking on a turtle as a pet. Turtles can live for decades and make great family pet if these concerns are taken care of and anticipated before purchasing a turtle.
H (John) Tucker has a keen interest in pets especially turtles and tortoises. They do make great pets but are a big commitment especially as they can live for many years. Find out more about turtle care.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=H_Tucker
Which Lizards Make Good Pets?
Let's face it, reptiles aren't everyone's idea of a good pet. Some people may think of them as cold, unemotional and even bit repulsive. But spend a little time with any reptile and you will soon begin to appreciate their intriguing ways and demeanour.
One of the most important considerations for choosing a lizard for a pet is the size of the enclosure.If you buy a lizard as a baby, you may be looking after it for the next 20 years if it lives to be healthy. n this time however, it is likely to grow to be several times it's infant size.
Food is the other main consideration. Lizards have different digestive systems to mammals. Feeding them snacks like chocolate and candy is a bad idea and could potentially kill you pet. Depending on which species you choose, you are more likely to be feeding it vegetables, fruit, insects and worms. You need to carefully research the diet of your chosen lizard. This is one of the most important ways to keep it in good health fr the long term.
Here are some of the most common varieties of lizards that are suitable for keeping as pets.
Iguana
Iguanas are amongst the most common lizards to be kept as pets. they are relatively tame creatures and can live for a long time in captivity. One thing to bear in mind with iguanas however is their size. In the wild these creatures can grow to be massive, some have been measured at up to 7 feet. At this size it become unmanageable to keep as a pet.
Bearded Dragon
A Bearded Dragon is another popular choice for a lizard pet.They can grow up to about 20 inches and eat mainly insects such as crickets but also enjoy many fruits and vegetables. The have a spiky beard which fans out when the creature is threatened. Bearded dragons also display many different and beautiful colors.
Blue Tongued Skink
Skinks are another type f reptile that can make good pets. The blue tongued skink is famous for it's bright blue tongue. They can grow up to 20 inches too and enjoy a diet of earthworms.
Green Anole
The green anole a lizard that is native to North America. they also make good pets. Some people refer to the anole as the American Chameleon because tot has the ability to change color according to it's surroundings. However it is not related to this species at all.
Leopard Gecko
The leopard gecko is a smaller lizard which can grow up to 10 inches long.They can live for up to 15 years. It's a nocturnal ground dwelling lizard that is native to Central Asia and India. It has pigmentation similar to a leopard, with black spots over a yellow body.They are insectivores living mainly off insects, spiders and worms. One thing about leopard geckos is that they are solitary creatures so they will not appreciate sharing their habitat with any other animals.
Greg is an online journalist writing for a variety of websites. One of these sites talks about the best types of mouse deterrent.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Isaacs
One of the most important considerations for choosing a lizard for a pet is the size of the enclosure.If you buy a lizard as a baby, you may be looking after it for the next 20 years if it lives to be healthy. n this time however, it is likely to grow to be several times it's infant size.
Food is the other main consideration. Lizards have different digestive systems to mammals. Feeding them snacks like chocolate and candy is a bad idea and could potentially kill you pet. Depending on which species you choose, you are more likely to be feeding it vegetables, fruit, insects and worms. You need to carefully research the diet of your chosen lizard. This is one of the most important ways to keep it in good health fr the long term.
Here are some of the most common varieties of lizards that are suitable for keeping as pets.
Iguana
Iguanas are amongst the most common lizards to be kept as pets. they are relatively tame creatures and can live for a long time in captivity. One thing to bear in mind with iguanas however is their size. In the wild these creatures can grow to be massive, some have been measured at up to 7 feet. At this size it become unmanageable to keep as a pet.
Bearded Dragon
A Bearded Dragon is another popular choice for a lizard pet.They can grow up to about 20 inches and eat mainly insects such as crickets but also enjoy many fruits and vegetables. The have a spiky beard which fans out when the creature is threatened. Bearded dragons also display many different and beautiful colors.
Blue Tongued Skink
Skinks are another type f reptile that can make good pets. The blue tongued skink is famous for it's bright blue tongue. They can grow up to 20 inches too and enjoy a diet of earthworms.
Green Anole
The green anole a lizard that is native to North America. they also make good pets. Some people refer to the anole as the American Chameleon because tot has the ability to change color according to it's surroundings. However it is not related to this species at all.
Leopard Gecko
The leopard gecko is a smaller lizard which can grow up to 10 inches long.They can live for up to 15 years. It's a nocturnal ground dwelling lizard that is native to Central Asia and India. It has pigmentation similar to a leopard, with black spots over a yellow body.They are insectivores living mainly off insects, spiders and worms. One thing about leopard geckos is that they are solitary creatures so they will not appreciate sharing their habitat with any other animals.
Greg is an online journalist writing for a variety of websites. One of these sites talks about the best types of mouse deterrent.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Isaacs
3 Things to Avoid When Raising a Pet Green Iguana - Are You Making These Dangerous Mistakes?
Many people search for information on how to best take care of their pet green iguana. To provide a general overview of the problem area here, you should know that making these mistakes can cause severe illness for your iguana. These issues are so important, that to ignore them could lead to problems like malnutrition or stunted growth - even death for your innocent pet.
When you know you have to cope with the possible loss of your iguana or sky high bills for veterinary care and medicines, then clearly you'll want to avoid doing things that create illness for your iguana. And so, with that in mind, listed below are the three points you have got to carefully avoid:
First off, never use sand or pebbles as a substrate in your iguana's habitat. The reasoning behind that is iguanas use their tongues to 'test' their environment, and small particulates easily stick to the tongue. Sand, pebbles, wood chips or any other small easily swallowed item like this can and will be eaten by your iguana. This leads to stomach and intestinal blockages that can be deadly, or at the very least costly in terms of veterinary bills.
There's no case where this advice should be ignored. Never use small particulate substrates. Instead, stick with an indoor/outdoor carpeting or tile flooring for you pet's habitat..
Second, never feed your iguana bugs or meat. Why? Iguana's are herbivores and survive in the wild by eating plant material. While they may occasionally ingest a bug that's stuck to a leaf or flower, their bodies are not designed to digest animal protein.
And what happens if you don't follow this rule? If you feed your iguana food with animal proteins, he won't be able to digest it. While you may think that your pet is getting enough food, it could actually be starving to death. Additionally, the high amounts of protein can cause system failure, leading to a slow and painful death for your pet..
Third and finally, never keep your iguana in a too small cage, thinking that this will control the growth of the lizard. This is because a healthy, well fed iguana will continue to grow no matter what size cage it's kept in. The idea that an iguana will not grow larger than the cage it's in is a myth.
Just how can we tell if a cage is too small? The cage should be at least twice as long as your iguana, and wide enough from front to back to allow it to turn around comfortably. Additionally, the height should be a minimum of one and one-half times the length of your iguana, as these arboreal creatures need space to climb. This is one of the biggest misconceptions with iguanas - people don't realize just how large a habitat they actually need..
Whenever you avoid these three issues, you'll largely eliminate the problems many people have when owning a pet iguana. This goes a long way in solving, removing or avoiding whatever problems you have got about caring for your green iguana.
Find out how you can create a safe iguana habitat by visiting our green iguanas as pets site. Find the information and supplies that you need to care for your iguana at iguanaaspet.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lizzie_Blount
When you know you have to cope with the possible loss of your iguana or sky high bills for veterinary care and medicines, then clearly you'll want to avoid doing things that create illness for your iguana. And so, with that in mind, listed below are the three points you have got to carefully avoid:
First off, never use sand or pebbles as a substrate in your iguana's habitat. The reasoning behind that is iguanas use their tongues to 'test' their environment, and small particulates easily stick to the tongue. Sand, pebbles, wood chips or any other small easily swallowed item like this can and will be eaten by your iguana. This leads to stomach and intestinal blockages that can be deadly, or at the very least costly in terms of veterinary bills.
There's no case where this advice should be ignored. Never use small particulate substrates. Instead, stick with an indoor/outdoor carpeting or tile flooring for you pet's habitat..
Second, never feed your iguana bugs or meat. Why? Iguana's are herbivores and survive in the wild by eating plant material. While they may occasionally ingest a bug that's stuck to a leaf or flower, their bodies are not designed to digest animal protein.
And what happens if you don't follow this rule? If you feed your iguana food with animal proteins, he won't be able to digest it. While you may think that your pet is getting enough food, it could actually be starving to death. Additionally, the high amounts of protein can cause system failure, leading to a slow and painful death for your pet..
Third and finally, never keep your iguana in a too small cage, thinking that this will control the growth of the lizard. This is because a healthy, well fed iguana will continue to grow no matter what size cage it's kept in. The idea that an iguana will not grow larger than the cage it's in is a myth.
Just how can we tell if a cage is too small? The cage should be at least twice as long as your iguana, and wide enough from front to back to allow it to turn around comfortably. Additionally, the height should be a minimum of one and one-half times the length of your iguana, as these arboreal creatures need space to climb. This is one of the biggest misconceptions with iguanas - people don't realize just how large a habitat they actually need..
Whenever you avoid these three issues, you'll largely eliminate the problems many people have when owning a pet iguana. This goes a long way in solving, removing or avoiding whatever problems you have got about caring for your green iguana.
Find out how you can create a safe iguana habitat by visiting our green iguanas as pets site. Find the information and supplies that you need to care for your iguana at iguanaaspet.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lizzie_Blount
What is the Best Tortoise Book?
Are you looking to buy a book on how to care for a tortoise? If so there are a few things you should be aware of. Not all books are worthy of you spending your hard earned cash on. Here are a few tips on what to look for when searching the shops or online. After all if you want an in-depth reference which you can return to year after year it should have some authority. Here I have outlined just a few important points to look for when buying your guide.
My Top 5 Tips
1. Does the author have a sound knowledge base and is able to convey this to the reader?
2. Is the author available for advice ie. through an email address or is it a general reference book with no specific author?
3. Do you like the style of the book, does it have detailed information on health, environment, feeding, heating, lighting etc
4. Does the book have any specific detailed information and guidance on what to look for when buying a tortoise or even where you should go to buy one. Some species are endangered and you are not legally allowed to buy them.
5. Is the advice and information contained within the book easy to follow and practical in nature so you can put it into practice? Or is it aimed at a more academic audience?
Although this information may appear 'common sense' you could find if you are new to keeping and caring for a tortoise you will drown in information overload! It is important to remember that if you plan to buy a tortoise you should be aware that your new pet may outlive you! It is a huge commitment to take on and this should always be at the forefront of your mind. Taking a tortoise into your home requires so much more than a little rabbit hutch and a few lettuce leaves. At the very least you should know how large the enclosure should be for optimum health and well-being. You should know what to use for the substrate in the enclosure and also what diet your chosen species of tortoise requires.
Different types of chelonian can require quite different environments to live in in order to thrive and stay healthy. If you decide on a less popular species you will possible have to provide a larger enclosure for example. One of the larger types of tortoise will need a very large home which could be the size of an entire room in your house!When you are looking for information online about your chosen pet you will come across a huge amount of information, however not all of it is authoritative or even correct!
There are so many elements to consider before you even buy your tortoise. Therefore you should choose your guide to keeping them very carefully. Once you have done some homework and due diligence you will be able to narrow your search down to just a few possible guides. Once you are at this point it is just a matter of choosing the one that 'jumps' out at you. Whichever you choose good luck with caring for your new friend for probably the rest of your life!v
Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and has been keeping tortoises for many years. If you are interested to find out more about these amazing creatures go to TortoiseTips
For the best authoritative guide on caring for your tortoise go to http://tortoisetips.com/tips/ where you will find expert information and help.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear
My Top 5 Tips
1. Does the author have a sound knowledge base and is able to convey this to the reader?
2. Is the author available for advice ie. through an email address or is it a general reference book with no specific author?
3. Do you like the style of the book, does it have detailed information on health, environment, feeding, heating, lighting etc
4. Does the book have any specific detailed information and guidance on what to look for when buying a tortoise or even where you should go to buy one. Some species are endangered and you are not legally allowed to buy them.
5. Is the advice and information contained within the book easy to follow and practical in nature so you can put it into practice? Or is it aimed at a more academic audience?
Although this information may appear 'common sense' you could find if you are new to keeping and caring for a tortoise you will drown in information overload! It is important to remember that if you plan to buy a tortoise you should be aware that your new pet may outlive you! It is a huge commitment to take on and this should always be at the forefront of your mind. Taking a tortoise into your home requires so much more than a little rabbit hutch and a few lettuce leaves. At the very least you should know how large the enclosure should be for optimum health and well-being. You should know what to use for the substrate in the enclosure and also what diet your chosen species of tortoise requires.
Different types of chelonian can require quite different environments to live in in order to thrive and stay healthy. If you decide on a less popular species you will possible have to provide a larger enclosure for example. One of the larger types of tortoise will need a very large home which could be the size of an entire room in your house!When you are looking for information online about your chosen pet you will come across a huge amount of information, however not all of it is authoritative or even correct!
There are so many elements to consider before you even buy your tortoise. Therefore you should choose your guide to keeping them very carefully. Once you have done some homework and due diligence you will be able to narrow your search down to just a few possible guides. Once you are at this point it is just a matter of choosing the one that 'jumps' out at you. Whichever you choose good luck with caring for your new friend for probably the rest of your life!v
Ellie Bear is a tortoise enthusiast and has been keeping tortoises for many years. If you are interested to find out more about these amazing creatures go to TortoiseTips
For the best authoritative guide on caring for your tortoise go to http://tortoisetips.com/tips/ where you will find expert information and help.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear
Learn Why Snakes Make Good Pets
There are many people who are terrified by the sight of snakes and would never think about having them as pets. However not all snakes are poisonous and wild and some of them can be exciting as pets.
However before getting a snake as a pet, you should understand that the animal is not like common pets such as cats or dogs that can take care of themselves. Snakes need more attention. If you are not very committed then you shouldn't think about getting a snake as a pet. Snakes normally live for a long time, usually 20 years or more and you should know you are will likely live with your snake pet for a long time.
Another thing you should know about snakes is that they only eat the raw meat of prey animals such as mice, chicken, etc. Sometimes you will have to feed your snake pets with live prey animals that have not been killed and you should be prepared to devote a whole freezer for feeding your pet snakes.
Snakes are very adventurous and are always looking for an escape route so you should make sure you keep them in a much secured place or they will squeeze through barriers and run away.
Some poisonous snakes are very beautiful and attractive but you should be careful of taking them home as pets as they could be attack you or other individuals and endanger your lives.
Where to find a pet snake can be quite difficult. You could capture live snakes from their natural habitats but you should know that these snakes normally have a lot of parasites and diseases. They may find it difficult to live in restricted environments. They are also very wild and difficult to tame.
Buying an already-captured and tamed snake from breeders is the best idea when looking for pet snakes. These snakes are already used to living in restricted environments and are usually tame. However you should get them examined for any parasites or infections before buying them. You should also let the breeders demonstrate how the snake is fed so you won't have any problems with feeding your pet when you take it home.
If you are getting snake pets for the first time then I would recommend you to get any of corn snakes, King snakes, Milk snakes or Ball pythons. One disadvantage of Ball pythons is their feeding problems and you should be properly taught how to feed it before taking it home.
You should try to avoid poisonous snakes such as Boa constrictors, Burmese Pythons, Tree Boas, Water snakes, Green snakes, etc. if you are a new to snake keeping.
No matter how experienced you are with keeping snake pets, you should never take Anacondas and Reticulated pythons as pets as they are very dangerous and can easily get you or other people killed.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
However before getting a snake as a pet, you should understand that the animal is not like common pets such as cats or dogs that can take care of themselves. Snakes need more attention. If you are not very committed then you shouldn't think about getting a snake as a pet. Snakes normally live for a long time, usually 20 years or more and you should know you are will likely live with your snake pet for a long time.
Another thing you should know about snakes is that they only eat the raw meat of prey animals such as mice, chicken, etc. Sometimes you will have to feed your snake pets with live prey animals that have not been killed and you should be prepared to devote a whole freezer for feeding your pet snakes.
Snakes are very adventurous and are always looking for an escape route so you should make sure you keep them in a much secured place or they will squeeze through barriers and run away.
Some poisonous snakes are very beautiful and attractive but you should be careful of taking them home as pets as they could be attack you or other individuals and endanger your lives.
Where to find a pet snake can be quite difficult. You could capture live snakes from their natural habitats but you should know that these snakes normally have a lot of parasites and diseases. They may find it difficult to live in restricted environments. They are also very wild and difficult to tame.
Buying an already-captured and tamed snake from breeders is the best idea when looking for pet snakes. These snakes are already used to living in restricted environments and are usually tame. However you should get them examined for any parasites or infections before buying them. You should also let the breeders demonstrate how the snake is fed so you won't have any problems with feeding your pet when you take it home.
If you are getting snake pets for the first time then I would recommend you to get any of corn snakes, King snakes, Milk snakes or Ball pythons. One disadvantage of Ball pythons is their feeding problems and you should be properly taught how to feed it before taking it home.
You should try to avoid poisonous snakes such as Boa constrictors, Burmese Pythons, Tree Boas, Water snakes, Green snakes, etc. if you are a new to snake keeping.
No matter how experienced you are with keeping snake pets, you should never take Anacondas and Reticulated pythons as pets as they are very dangerous and can easily get you or other people killed.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
Saturday, August 21, 2010
The Green Iguana As a Pet - The Pros & Cons
Find Out Why the Green Iguana Makes a Great Pet
Lizards are becoming very popular exotic pets, with the most common of these lizards being the iguana. There are many different types of iguanas, with the Green Iguana being the most popular. One thing that attracts buyers of Green Iguanas, is that pet stores sell them quite cheaply. However, they might not be as easy to care for as you might think.
The Green Iguana is found in Central America, South America and Mexico. It generally lives in and around trees and plants, and is more active throughout the day time. When getting a Green Iguana it is important to know that it can grow to around 5-6 feet in length and can weigh up to 15 pounds - as you will need to take this into consideration when choosing the iguanas housing. Also, iguanas are solitary animals, and should be kept separate as they could attack each other. When Green Iguanas are fully grown, they can become aggressive towards you at certain times of the year, so be careful of this.
Choosing your housing for your Green Iguana can be difficult as they need a very large space to live, especially when they are adults. When they are young and growing, they will need at least a 20 gallon glass tank. As they get older and grow bigger you will need to find somewhere bigger. There is a myth that iguanas will only grow as big as their surroundings. This isn't true and they will keep growing no matter what their housing size is.
Iguanas must have UV light in their cage in order to survive, as this will help keep their skin healthy. The UV light should be kept on around 12 hours per day. Since they are from hot countries, the iguana's home should also be at the right temperature. Having the correct temperature helps the Green Iguana with digestion so it will grow and will keep its immune system healthy. Make sure the tank doesn't get too hot to where it might burn the iguana. Also, the iguana needs humidity, therefore don't let the heat dry the tank out.
The Green Iguana has a strict diet and should only be fed certain foods. They are herbivore animals in the wild, therefore they live off of plants and leaves. You should feed your pet iguana a mixture of vegetables and fruit which has been chopped up into small pieces, as well as dark greens such as dandelions. Unlike what some people may think, you do not feed the Iguana insects such as crickets or other food such as mice, as this can damage them and cause disease.
Green Iguanas can be a very interesting exotic pet to own, as long as you can provide it with all of the necessary needs. This includes making sure it has the right housing needs, and the right dietary needs. Failure to do this could lead to expensive vet bills, so take this into account when buying your Green Iguana.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
Lizards are becoming very popular exotic pets, with the most common of these lizards being the iguana. There are many different types of iguanas, with the Green Iguana being the most popular. One thing that attracts buyers of Green Iguanas, is that pet stores sell them quite cheaply. However, they might not be as easy to care for as you might think.
The Green Iguana is found in Central America, South America and Mexico. It generally lives in and around trees and plants, and is more active throughout the day time. When getting a Green Iguana it is important to know that it can grow to around 5-6 feet in length and can weigh up to 15 pounds - as you will need to take this into consideration when choosing the iguanas housing. Also, iguanas are solitary animals, and should be kept separate as they could attack each other. When Green Iguanas are fully grown, they can become aggressive towards you at certain times of the year, so be careful of this.
Choosing your housing for your Green Iguana can be difficult as they need a very large space to live, especially when they are adults. When they are young and growing, they will need at least a 20 gallon glass tank. As they get older and grow bigger you will need to find somewhere bigger. There is a myth that iguanas will only grow as big as their surroundings. This isn't true and they will keep growing no matter what their housing size is.
Iguanas must have UV light in their cage in order to survive, as this will help keep their skin healthy. The UV light should be kept on around 12 hours per day. Since they are from hot countries, the iguana's home should also be at the right temperature. Having the correct temperature helps the Green Iguana with digestion so it will grow and will keep its immune system healthy. Make sure the tank doesn't get too hot to where it might burn the iguana. Also, the iguana needs humidity, therefore don't let the heat dry the tank out.
The Green Iguana has a strict diet and should only be fed certain foods. They are herbivore animals in the wild, therefore they live off of plants and leaves. You should feed your pet iguana a mixture of vegetables and fruit which has been chopped up into small pieces, as well as dark greens such as dandelions. Unlike what some people may think, you do not feed the Iguana insects such as crickets or other food such as mice, as this can damage them and cause disease.
Green Iguanas can be a very interesting exotic pet to own, as long as you can provide it with all of the necessary needs. This includes making sure it has the right housing needs, and the right dietary needs. Failure to do this could lead to expensive vet bills, so take this into account when buying your Green Iguana.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
Facts on Bearded Dragons
Bearded dragons can be found mostly in Australia. Their scientific name is Pogona vitticeps, also known as the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. They have become more popular as people learn more about them. They are friendly and attach to their owners quickly.
These lizards can range in size between 7 inches to 12 inches. Measurements are taken from the tip of their nose to the beginning of their tail.
These guys can look mean and furious when scared or intimated by puffing out their beard and turning dark colors under their chin and belly. But on the contrary these guys are very tame and easy to handle that even a child as young as 7 years old can handle them, without the fear of being bitten.
Another aspect that has made them more popular is their interaction with humans. They are interesting and fun to watch. They will actually interact with you and play with you, now not like a dog or cat, but each beardie has it's own unique personality.
The common bearded dragon that are available in the pet shops today mostly are inland or sometimes referred to as central bearded dragon. They're named as such because of their natural habitat within the wild where they can be found; in central or mainland of Australia.
There is another type where they natural environment is near the coastal area. They're better known as coastal bearded dragon. They used to be very popular in the pet community but getting lesser now.
Besides 2 of these common dragons, less common types of bearded dragons tend to be Rankins and Vittikins. These are the reptiles which can be really hard to find in the pet shops.
Many of these reptiles are very similar, but may be somewhat different in size or their colors. They may be categorized as mid-size pet dragon. Male could grow up to about 24 inches long, and female is approximately 20 inches. Their tail is about half of the body length.
These lizards have rough skin on the back and side of the body but soft along the belly part. Their lifespan is approximately 7 years or more.
Because of the strict rules of international pet buying and selling, most of the bearded dragons found in United States and United Kingdom tend to be captive bred locally. Most of the time, the beardeies which are for sale in pet stores these days are mainly inland or central dragons where the majority of the hobbyist may find.
I now invite you to visit my blog to learn more about Bearded Dragon Care
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Todd_S._Miller
These lizards can range in size between 7 inches to 12 inches. Measurements are taken from the tip of their nose to the beginning of their tail.
These guys can look mean and furious when scared or intimated by puffing out their beard and turning dark colors under their chin and belly. But on the contrary these guys are very tame and easy to handle that even a child as young as 7 years old can handle them, without the fear of being bitten.
Another aspect that has made them more popular is their interaction with humans. They are interesting and fun to watch. They will actually interact with you and play with you, now not like a dog or cat, but each beardie has it's own unique personality.
The common bearded dragon that are available in the pet shops today mostly are inland or sometimes referred to as central bearded dragon. They're named as such because of their natural habitat within the wild where they can be found; in central or mainland of Australia.
There is another type where they natural environment is near the coastal area. They're better known as coastal bearded dragon. They used to be very popular in the pet community but getting lesser now.
Besides 2 of these common dragons, less common types of bearded dragons tend to be Rankins and Vittikins. These are the reptiles which can be really hard to find in the pet shops.
Many of these reptiles are very similar, but may be somewhat different in size or their colors. They may be categorized as mid-size pet dragon. Male could grow up to about 24 inches long, and female is approximately 20 inches. Their tail is about half of the body length.
These lizards have rough skin on the back and side of the body but soft along the belly part. Their lifespan is approximately 7 years or more.
Because of the strict rules of international pet buying and selling, most of the bearded dragons found in United States and United Kingdom tend to be captive bred locally. Most of the time, the beardeies which are for sale in pet stores these days are mainly inland or central dragons where the majority of the hobbyist may find.
I now invite you to visit my blog to learn more about Bearded Dragon Care
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Todd_S._Miller
Reptile Supplies For Snakes
Not sure if you've heard, but having a pet snake is not only awesome, it's quite an experience - for you and those around you. If you've read the blogs and owner articles, you'll know there's more to taking care of a snake than just feeding it mice and hanging it from around your neck. From the reptile cage/aquarium to its surrounding temperature to everything it eats, you must pay careful attention to its daily needs - starting with reptile supplies.
Your snake's home, for instance, must be a cage or large aquarium where it feels comfortable. That means it must be able to move about freely, with enough room to slither and curl as it pleases. The cage lid must be secure enough so that it cannot escape and the floor should be lined with torn newspaper. Never line your cage floor with anything that expels ammonia or doesn't dry quickly. Do research on the kind of snake you'll be getting so that you'll know if it needs to burrow. If that's the case, you'll need to line the cage with potting soil or sand. Some reptile supplies stores even sell reptile carpets which are perfect for some snakes.
Snakes are cold-blooded so the temperature of the cage must be properly maintained. The best thing to do is to do some Internet or in-store research on the type of climate from which your snake is used to (or typically lives in) to make sure you maintain the proper temperature. Most snakes live in areas with temperatures of 25 to 30 degrees centigrade (77 to 86 Fahrenheit) so buy a thermometer from a reptile supplies store to make sure your snake's environment reflects that temperature.
When it comes to sunlight, or any kind of light, we can't stress the importance of research. Some snakes are sensitive to light and might become ill or upset if exposed to it when they're not supposed to be. You must also remember that snakes enjoy their privacy. Always make certain that the snake's water dish has water in it to it can provide moisture. Dryness or dehydration can cause serious health problems for snakes.
As far as snake food: you can feed your snake eggs, mice and rats (dead mice and rats). Reptile supplies stores actually sell frozen mice in their stores for easy feeding. Once a week feeding should be enough to keep your snake happy and health. And don't forget any snake supplements that the store might think would help your snake live the happy and healthy life it deserves.
When it comes to reptile supplies and pet snake care, it's always important to do your research. From diet and exercise requirements to the kind of reptile tank you get, the more you know about your new pet, the healthier and happier it will be.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RJ_Price
Your snake's home, for instance, must be a cage or large aquarium where it feels comfortable. That means it must be able to move about freely, with enough room to slither and curl as it pleases. The cage lid must be secure enough so that it cannot escape and the floor should be lined with torn newspaper. Never line your cage floor with anything that expels ammonia or doesn't dry quickly. Do research on the kind of snake you'll be getting so that you'll know if it needs to burrow. If that's the case, you'll need to line the cage with potting soil or sand. Some reptile supplies stores even sell reptile carpets which are perfect for some snakes.
Snakes are cold-blooded so the temperature of the cage must be properly maintained. The best thing to do is to do some Internet or in-store research on the type of climate from which your snake is used to (or typically lives in) to make sure you maintain the proper temperature. Most snakes live in areas with temperatures of 25 to 30 degrees centigrade (77 to 86 Fahrenheit) so buy a thermometer from a reptile supplies store to make sure your snake's environment reflects that temperature.
When it comes to sunlight, or any kind of light, we can't stress the importance of research. Some snakes are sensitive to light and might become ill or upset if exposed to it when they're not supposed to be. You must also remember that snakes enjoy their privacy. Always make certain that the snake's water dish has water in it to it can provide moisture. Dryness or dehydration can cause serious health problems for snakes.
As far as snake food: you can feed your snake eggs, mice and rats (dead mice and rats). Reptile supplies stores actually sell frozen mice in their stores for easy feeding. Once a week feeding should be enough to keep your snake happy and health. And don't forget any snake supplements that the store might think would help your snake live the happy and healthy life it deserves.
When it comes to reptile supplies and pet snake care, it's always important to do your research. From diet and exercise requirements to the kind of reptile tank you get, the more you know about your new pet, the healthier and happier it will be.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RJ_Price
Reptile Supplies - What Do You Need?
When caring for a reptile, your two top priorities should always be its health and happiness. Taking care of these two priorities means there are many things to consider. There's the type of cage it will be living in... the temperature/climate of its cage/aquarium/terrarium. There's also reptile food, water and handling to consider... not to mention things as easily unforgettable as the type of lining for the cage floor. Before bringing your reptilian friend home, there are lots of things to know and selecting the proper reptile supplies will be the key to your little friend's (and your own) happiness.
What kind of reptile are you searching for? A Snake? Lizard? A Gecko? A Turtle? No matter what type of reptile you're looking to get, the mail rule is the same: research the specific about your reptile so you'll know which reptile supplies you need for successful care of your pet.
RESEARCH: First check out the Internet to find out as much as you can about the kind of reptile you plan on owning. Remember, like humans, every reptile is different, so you need to be sure of the specific requirements for the species you're about to purchase. Find out things like: The correct cage temperature for your specific reptile. What kind of floor lining you should have at the bottom of the cage. Discover if your lizard enjoys light at night or during the day. It's important to know specifics about your new pet, like what their natural habitat is like and what sort of things will make them feel at home and comfortable in their new surroundings. Once you have all the information you need, you'll be ready to take the next step.
MAKE A LIST: After you've determined how to help keep your new pet healthy and happy, make a list of things you'll need immediately and things that can wait. For instance, things you'll most likely need right away include: a cage or aquarium, a heating device, some sort of cage flooring, thermometers so you'll know cage temperature and a whole host of other things. Items that can wait are more luxurious items, like feeding tongs and aesthetic details for the reptile's home.
SHOPPING RESEARCH: Once you've made your list of required items, check out websites and/or your neighborhood pet stores to find the best products and the best prices. You might end up purchasing different items at different stores based because some stores deal with specific items and may offer better
pricing on those items. One important thing to remember is that cheap does not always mean best. Find reviews, blogs and comments about the best products first and then search the Internet for the best deal on those products.
Most importantly, when getting a reptile, it's all about research. Once you know as much as you can about your specific reptile-type, you have the knowledge you need to search for the reptile supplies and the pet stores that best fit your pet.
Most importantly, when getting a reptile, it's all about research. Once you know as much as you can about your specific reptile-type, you have the knowledge you need to search for the reptile supplies and the pet stores that best fit your pet.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RJ_Price
What kind of reptile are you searching for? A Snake? Lizard? A Gecko? A Turtle? No matter what type of reptile you're looking to get, the mail rule is the same: research the specific about your reptile so you'll know which reptile supplies you need for successful care of your pet.
RESEARCH: First check out the Internet to find out as much as you can about the kind of reptile you plan on owning. Remember, like humans, every reptile is different, so you need to be sure of the specific requirements for the species you're about to purchase. Find out things like: The correct cage temperature for your specific reptile. What kind of floor lining you should have at the bottom of the cage. Discover if your lizard enjoys light at night or during the day. It's important to know specifics about your new pet, like what their natural habitat is like and what sort of things will make them feel at home and comfortable in their new surroundings. Once you have all the information you need, you'll be ready to take the next step.
MAKE A LIST: After you've determined how to help keep your new pet healthy and happy, make a list of things you'll need immediately and things that can wait. For instance, things you'll most likely need right away include: a cage or aquarium, a heating device, some sort of cage flooring, thermometers so you'll know cage temperature and a whole host of other things. Items that can wait are more luxurious items, like feeding tongs and aesthetic details for the reptile's home.
SHOPPING RESEARCH: Once you've made your list of required items, check out websites and/or your neighborhood pet stores to find the best products and the best prices. You might end up purchasing different items at different stores based because some stores deal with specific items and may offer better
pricing on those items. One important thing to remember is that cheap does not always mean best. Find reviews, blogs and comments about the best products first and then search the Internet for the best deal on those products.
Most importantly, when getting a reptile, it's all about research. Once you know as much as you can about your specific reptile-type, you have the knowledge you need to search for the reptile supplies and the pet stores that best fit your pet.
Most importantly, when getting a reptile, it's all about research. Once you know as much as you can about your specific reptile-type, you have the knowledge you need to search for the reptile supplies and the pet stores that best fit your pet.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RJ_Price
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Reptiles for Beginners
Surprises are the last thing you want when you bring your reptile home from the store. That's the number one reason you want to do your research before buying a reptile - it will prepare you for what to expect and will inform you exactly what you need to keep your pet happy and healthy. From the reptile supplies you need to purchase your pet's climate and diet, you must take everything into consideration so that you and your new pet can live a happy life together.
This article discusses reptile we feel are good for beginners. They fall into this category because of their relatively low maintenance compared to other reptiles. They will still need an investment of time and money (equipment, food, etc.), but there's no doubt they require less of a time and monetary investment than other reptiles who have complicated diets or environmental needs. Researching your new pet and its needs are still crucial (especially if you're considering specific reptile species) and is important to avoid problems when you bring home your reptile.
Geckos, specifically Leopard Geckos are perfect for the person leaping into the realm of reptiles. They are small, which means you should only need a 20 gallon tank for them to be comfortable. Since they are not nocturnal, they don't need special lighting. (You already know that if you've done your research!) And the best thing about Geckos? They are easy to handle and extremely gentle.
Snakes are also great for beginners. Of course, their diet might be a little off-putting. Pre-killed whole mice or rats are their food of choice - hence the "off-putting" comment. They usually need feeding once a week. So if you're going away for a few days and need to leave your snake alone you won't need anyone to come in and feed it for you (assuming, of course, you fed it before you left!) Since Corn snakes only reach three to five feet and are easy to take care of, they are also the perfect snake for starter reptilian owners. However, make sure the lid to their tank fits properly, and tight. They are great escape artists. A Ball Python reaches the same size of a corn snake and can live for twenty to thirty years. They are docile and also easy to care for, so they're also a great choice for beginners.
Turtles. Most people think that turtles are a great pet for beginners but actually, the opposite is true. Turtles (most commonly found are the red-eared sliders) are messy and can get very large. This means you'll need a large tank or aquarium along with ultraviolet light to help keep them healthy. The most important thing is to know the proper dietary and environmental requirements of the specific turtle you want before deciding to bring one into your home. They take a great deal of preparation and equipment.
RJ provides information to people looking to buy or take care of reptiles. From reptile supplies and reptile food to so many other sources of information, check out RJ's articles around the Internet to help you make the best decisions.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RJ_Price
This article discusses reptile we feel are good for beginners. They fall into this category because of their relatively low maintenance compared to other reptiles. They will still need an investment of time and money (equipment, food, etc.), but there's no doubt they require less of a time and monetary investment than other reptiles who have complicated diets or environmental needs. Researching your new pet and its needs are still crucial (especially if you're considering specific reptile species) and is important to avoid problems when you bring home your reptile.
Geckos, specifically Leopard Geckos are perfect for the person leaping into the realm of reptiles. They are small, which means you should only need a 20 gallon tank for them to be comfortable. Since they are not nocturnal, they don't need special lighting. (You already know that if you've done your research!) And the best thing about Geckos? They are easy to handle and extremely gentle.
Snakes are also great for beginners. Of course, their diet might be a little off-putting. Pre-killed whole mice or rats are their food of choice - hence the "off-putting" comment. They usually need feeding once a week. So if you're going away for a few days and need to leave your snake alone you won't need anyone to come in and feed it for you (assuming, of course, you fed it before you left!) Since Corn snakes only reach three to five feet and are easy to take care of, they are also the perfect snake for starter reptilian owners. However, make sure the lid to their tank fits properly, and tight. They are great escape artists. A Ball Python reaches the same size of a corn snake and can live for twenty to thirty years. They are docile and also easy to care for, so they're also a great choice for beginners.
Turtles. Most people think that turtles are a great pet for beginners but actually, the opposite is true. Turtles (most commonly found are the red-eared sliders) are messy and can get very large. This means you'll need a large tank or aquarium along with ultraviolet light to help keep them healthy. The most important thing is to know the proper dietary and environmental requirements of the specific turtle you want before deciding to bring one into your home. They take a great deal of preparation and equipment.
RJ provides information to people looking to buy or take care of reptiles. From reptile supplies and reptile food to so many other sources of information, check out RJ's articles around the Internet to help you make the best decisions.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RJ_Price
Buying Leopard Geckos
Buying Leopard Geckos for pets or breeders has become an easy task. They have become so popular as pets that most any pet shop will have some in stock, and breeders of various colors and patterns are numerous.
Pet Shops
You should be able to find a healthy specimen in your local pet shop. Watch for clean cages, nice plump tails on the Geckos, clear eyes, and good bone structure. If you are purchasing a baby he won't have his color and pattern in yet. Few pet shops will be able to tell you accurately what his parents strain is or even their colors. If this is important to you it's best to go directly to a breeder.
Leopard Gecko Breeders
If there is no one in your area that breeds Leopard Geckos, they are easy to find online. Once you begin buying leopard Geckos this way the biggest problem will be selection. The brilliant colors and differing patterns can turn one pet hobby into an obsession, and the newest varieties can cost hundreds and even thousands of dollars.
Look for breeders that offer overnight shipping and live delivery guarantees. Also try to go with breeders that are closest to your location so that your new pet spends as little time as possible in that box. Once you get your new family addition to your home check him over carefully and notify the breeder immediately of any concerns. Buying Leopard Geckos as pets is a good choice. They are hearty, easily cared for and have a long lifespan.
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "Gecko Care Made Easy," teaches Gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptile. http://www.reptilegecko.com/beb.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
Pet Shops
You should be able to find a healthy specimen in your local pet shop. Watch for clean cages, nice plump tails on the Geckos, clear eyes, and good bone structure. If you are purchasing a baby he won't have his color and pattern in yet. Few pet shops will be able to tell you accurately what his parents strain is or even their colors. If this is important to you it's best to go directly to a breeder.
Leopard Gecko Breeders
If there is no one in your area that breeds Leopard Geckos, they are easy to find online. Once you begin buying leopard Geckos this way the biggest problem will be selection. The brilliant colors and differing patterns can turn one pet hobby into an obsession, and the newest varieties can cost hundreds and even thousands of dollars.
Look for breeders that offer overnight shipping and live delivery guarantees. Also try to go with breeders that are closest to your location so that your new pet spends as little time as possible in that box. Once you get your new family addition to your home check him over carefully and notify the breeder immediately of any concerns. Buying Leopard Geckos as pets is a good choice. They are hearty, easily cared for and have a long lifespan.
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "Gecko Care Made Easy," teaches Gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptile. http://www.reptilegecko.com/beb.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
Breeding Leopard Geckos Can Be Fun!
There are a plethora of different type of lizards and geckos available to the consumer and of these, the leopard gecko is probably one of the easiest to breed in captivity. The enormous variety of available colors and patterns make leopard geckos among the most beautiful and unique lizards around, and even more variety and beauty can be developed through selective breeding.
Ok, in order to begin the breeding process, we first must make sure that we have both a male and female and that they are both sexually mature animals. People new to leopard gecko care often have trouble telling the difference between the sexes but its really not that difficult if you know what to look for.
Gently turn your leopard gecko over and examine the area between the hind legs and the tail on the underside of the animal. A male gecko has two "hemipenal bulges" which are visible just behind the vent under the tail. Sometimes, if you have a particularly fat female on your hand, you may mistake some excess fat for the hemipenals but there is another clue to determining sex because the male gecko will also have a series of enlarged pores on the underside in the shape of a "V". These are known as the femoral pores and are located just below the anal opening. While females may have some visible pores as well, the ones on the male will be much more apparent.
Once you have identified that you have both a male and a female, you must be sure that they are both healthy, and full grown. The female should be a year old at a minimum and will usually be slightly larger than the male. He should be at least eight months of age in order for him to take care of business. Now all that you need do is put them together in the same habitat and let nature will do the rest. Sometimes, the little buggers will get right down to it but more often than not, it will take some courting on the part of the male to get the female in the proper mood. To do this, the male generally exhibits what you might mistake as aggression. He will bite the female repeatedly and he may dance a little mambo for the female, vigorously shaking his tale. This is all quite normal. If the girl wants nothing to do with the boy, she will bite him back. This may go on for a while, but you want to make sure you monitor the situation because the courting ritual shouldn't go on longer than 2 or 3 days. After that, I recommend you remove the male and let him rest for a couple of days. As with most males, it takes a couple of days after dealing with a non-cooperative female, to be ready to head into the fray again. After a few days, put them together again and monitor their progress. It should not take more than one or two repetitions of this process before you have a pregnant female.
After they have completed mating, you will need to provide a humid place for the female to lay her eggs. A humid hide is ideal for these purposes. You simply take a small container and place some damp sphagnum moss or your favorite lizard bedding material in the container. The female will use the humid hide when they are shedding and when the female is laying eggs. Once the humid hide is in place, the female will begin laying eggs in clutches which generally consist of one or two eggs which she will continue to lay as many as eight times a year in two to four week intervals.
After the eggs have been laid, you should remove them and place them in an incubator. Once in the incubator, you will now be able to determine the sex of your babies! Most beginners don't know that the temperature at which the eggs are incubated will determine the sex of the newborn geckos. Eggs incubated at 80 degrees or thereabouts will hatch as female geckos but if you increase the temperature to around 90 degrees, your hatchlings will be male. If you'd like to get a mix of both sexes, just keep your incubator set to 85 degrees.
Breeding Leopard Geckos can be fun and the difficulty level is not too great if you follow the advice I've outlined for you in this article. Enjoy!
Felix Silva is a lover of leopard geckos and enjoys sharing the information he's gained over the years. If you would like more information about Breeding Leopard Geckos, please visit http://www.leopardgeckoplanet.com where you can learn lots more about caring for your precious pet.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Felix_Silva
Ok, in order to begin the breeding process, we first must make sure that we have both a male and female and that they are both sexually mature animals. People new to leopard gecko care often have trouble telling the difference between the sexes but its really not that difficult if you know what to look for.
Gently turn your leopard gecko over and examine the area between the hind legs and the tail on the underside of the animal. A male gecko has two "hemipenal bulges" which are visible just behind the vent under the tail. Sometimes, if you have a particularly fat female on your hand, you may mistake some excess fat for the hemipenals but there is another clue to determining sex because the male gecko will also have a series of enlarged pores on the underside in the shape of a "V". These are known as the femoral pores and are located just below the anal opening. While females may have some visible pores as well, the ones on the male will be much more apparent.
Once you have identified that you have both a male and a female, you must be sure that they are both healthy, and full grown. The female should be a year old at a minimum and will usually be slightly larger than the male. He should be at least eight months of age in order for him to take care of business. Now all that you need do is put them together in the same habitat and let nature will do the rest. Sometimes, the little buggers will get right down to it but more often than not, it will take some courting on the part of the male to get the female in the proper mood. To do this, the male generally exhibits what you might mistake as aggression. He will bite the female repeatedly and he may dance a little mambo for the female, vigorously shaking his tale. This is all quite normal. If the girl wants nothing to do with the boy, she will bite him back. This may go on for a while, but you want to make sure you monitor the situation because the courting ritual shouldn't go on longer than 2 or 3 days. After that, I recommend you remove the male and let him rest for a couple of days. As with most males, it takes a couple of days after dealing with a non-cooperative female, to be ready to head into the fray again. After a few days, put them together again and monitor their progress. It should not take more than one or two repetitions of this process before you have a pregnant female.
After they have completed mating, you will need to provide a humid place for the female to lay her eggs. A humid hide is ideal for these purposes. You simply take a small container and place some damp sphagnum moss or your favorite lizard bedding material in the container. The female will use the humid hide when they are shedding and when the female is laying eggs. Once the humid hide is in place, the female will begin laying eggs in clutches which generally consist of one or two eggs which she will continue to lay as many as eight times a year in two to four week intervals.
After the eggs have been laid, you should remove them and place them in an incubator. Once in the incubator, you will now be able to determine the sex of your babies! Most beginners don't know that the temperature at which the eggs are incubated will determine the sex of the newborn geckos. Eggs incubated at 80 degrees or thereabouts will hatch as female geckos but if you increase the temperature to around 90 degrees, your hatchlings will be male. If you'd like to get a mix of both sexes, just keep your incubator set to 85 degrees.
Breeding Leopard Geckos can be fun and the difficulty level is not too great if you follow the advice I've outlined for you in this article. Enjoy!
Felix Silva is a lover of leopard geckos and enjoys sharing the information he's gained over the years. If you would like more information about Breeding Leopard Geckos, please visit http://www.leopardgeckoplanet.com where you can learn lots more about caring for your precious pet.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Felix_Silva
Common Misconceptions About Having an Iguana Pet
Many people consider having an iguana pet, but first they need to overcome all the dangerous myths in order to succeed taking proper care of a green iguana! Here are the most common misconceptions about green iguanas, which you should know about.
One of the common myths is that green iguanas can eat lettuce. This myth is not entirely false. Of course, since green iguanas are best kept on a vegetarian diet, you can feed it lettuce, but it would be better to avoid it since most types of salad lettuce have very little nutritional value. The best vegetables you can feed your iguana pet with are collards, turnip greens and mustard greens.
Another myth says that iguanas will not outgrow their cages. Many people provide small iguana cages in order to keep them in a convenient size. You should not forget that a healthy iguana can reach up to six feet long. A small iguana cage will only make your pet feel very uncomfortable.
Temperature is a very important aspect in a iguana's life, given the fact that they are cold blooded. This is the reason why many people add hot rocks to a green iguana enclosure. These hot rocks are indeed great, but not recommended, therefore you should use the special lighting which is available in almost all the pet shops.
Regarding iguana food, there is a certain myth which says that iguanas can eat insects, pet food, and other animal products, there are however many sources today that still state that iguanas can given animal protein as part of their diet. The truth is that iguanas are best suited to a vegetarian diet. On the other hand, consumption of animal proteins can cause your iguana to develop gout and it can also lead to serious kidney problems.
There are of course many other myths about raising green iguanas, some of them being very dangerous. This is why you have to make sure you are well informed before having an iguana pet.
Learn more about iguana pets at the authors website.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tatta_Matt
One of the common myths is that green iguanas can eat lettuce. This myth is not entirely false. Of course, since green iguanas are best kept on a vegetarian diet, you can feed it lettuce, but it would be better to avoid it since most types of salad lettuce have very little nutritional value. The best vegetables you can feed your iguana pet with are collards, turnip greens and mustard greens.
Another myth says that iguanas will not outgrow their cages. Many people provide small iguana cages in order to keep them in a convenient size. You should not forget that a healthy iguana can reach up to six feet long. A small iguana cage will only make your pet feel very uncomfortable.
Temperature is a very important aspect in a iguana's life, given the fact that they are cold blooded. This is the reason why many people add hot rocks to a green iguana enclosure. These hot rocks are indeed great, but not recommended, therefore you should use the special lighting which is available in almost all the pet shops.
Regarding iguana food, there is a certain myth which says that iguanas can eat insects, pet food, and other animal products, there are however many sources today that still state that iguanas can given animal protein as part of their diet. The truth is that iguanas are best suited to a vegetarian diet. On the other hand, consumption of animal proteins can cause your iguana to develop gout and it can also lead to serious kidney problems.
There are of course many other myths about raising green iguanas, some of them being very dangerous. This is why you have to make sure you are well informed before having an iguana pet.
Learn more about iguana pets at the authors website.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tatta_Matt
Big Leopard Gecko
There are two factors involved in raising a really big Leopard Gecko. These are excellence in care, and genetics.
Feeding for Maximize Size
Most Leopard Geckos measure in at around 9 inches at adulthood. In order to meet or beat this goal provide as much variety in food as possible.
If your Gecko becomes bored with crickets everyday, he will eat only enough to get by. This does not provide maximum growth potential.
There may not be much variety in your local pet shop, so you may have to search and buy online. Try giving him meal worms, roaches, grasshoppers, superworms and occasionally wax worms. Wax Worms should only be used as a treat since they are so high in fat.
Gut load your feeder insects with fresh veggies and grain, and use fruit pieces or a wet sponge to keep them hydrated.
Always use calcium supplement powder with Vitamin D to coat insects prior to feeding the Leopard Gecko.
Exercise and Activity
If you keep your Gecko in a small area without much to do he will not reach his full growth potential and become the big Leopard Gecko you want.
In as large a habitat as you can provide use rocks, plants, wood climbs, and various types of hides for him to investigate. Leopard Geckos are naturally active at night and will scamper and climb if there is room and interesting elements. This will build muscle, bone, and aid in digestion.
Heat Requirements
Leopard Geckos require a heat gradient of 90 degrees Fahrenheit at one end of the tank. This should go down to about 80 degrees Fahrenheit at the other end. This gradient allows them to manage their own body temperature.
If a leopard Gecko is kept too cool he can not digest his food properly and begin to go into hibernation. He will be sluggish and lethargic, and unable to meet his big Leopard Gecko potential, or even his normal life expectancy.
Humidity
Keep a humid hid for the Gecko to bask in. This is very important for the shedding process. This hide should be near the warmest part of the tank and have a shallow dish of water for him to sit in. Increase the humidity in this hide with wet paper towels overhead. Think "steam room".
Shedding problems due to a lack of humidity can cause toe loss, eye problems and other health issues.
Genetics
If you are buying from a breeder you can ask about the size of the parent Geckos. The larger they are, the larger you can expect your gecko to become.
You may also want to investigate the big Geckos that are on the market right now. They have been bred from parents reaching one foot in length. Now that's a Big Leopard Gecko!
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "Gecko Care Made Easy," teaches Gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptile. http://www.reptilegecko.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
Feeding for Maximize Size
Most Leopard Geckos measure in at around 9 inches at adulthood. In order to meet or beat this goal provide as much variety in food as possible.
If your Gecko becomes bored with crickets everyday, he will eat only enough to get by. This does not provide maximum growth potential.
There may not be much variety in your local pet shop, so you may have to search and buy online. Try giving him meal worms, roaches, grasshoppers, superworms and occasionally wax worms. Wax Worms should only be used as a treat since they are so high in fat.
Gut load your feeder insects with fresh veggies and grain, and use fruit pieces or a wet sponge to keep them hydrated.
Always use calcium supplement powder with Vitamin D to coat insects prior to feeding the Leopard Gecko.
Exercise and Activity
If you keep your Gecko in a small area without much to do he will not reach his full growth potential and become the big Leopard Gecko you want.
In as large a habitat as you can provide use rocks, plants, wood climbs, and various types of hides for him to investigate. Leopard Geckos are naturally active at night and will scamper and climb if there is room and interesting elements. This will build muscle, bone, and aid in digestion.
Heat Requirements
Leopard Geckos require a heat gradient of 90 degrees Fahrenheit at one end of the tank. This should go down to about 80 degrees Fahrenheit at the other end. This gradient allows them to manage their own body temperature.
If a leopard Gecko is kept too cool he can not digest his food properly and begin to go into hibernation. He will be sluggish and lethargic, and unable to meet his big Leopard Gecko potential, or even his normal life expectancy.
Humidity
Keep a humid hid for the Gecko to bask in. This is very important for the shedding process. This hide should be near the warmest part of the tank and have a shallow dish of water for him to sit in. Increase the humidity in this hide with wet paper towels overhead. Think "steam room".
Shedding problems due to a lack of humidity can cause toe loss, eye problems and other health issues.
Genetics
If you are buying from a breeder you can ask about the size of the parent Geckos. The larger they are, the larger you can expect your gecko to become.
You may also want to investigate the big Geckos that are on the market right now. They have been bred from parents reaching one foot in length. Now that's a Big Leopard Gecko!
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "Gecko Care Made Easy," teaches Gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptile. http://www.reptilegecko.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
Monday, August 16, 2010
Reptile Supplies - Tanks
The first thing to recognize about keeping a reptile at home is that they required well-ventilated surroundings with just the proper levels of dryness and moisture. Just like humans, your reptile will survive best in an environment in which they feel comfortable and sheltered.
When it comes to reptile supplies, their home is of profound importance. That means setting up a reptile tank that is spacious enough for when they get to their full size. Think how you would feel if you had to live in a room that was so small you couldn't even turn around or so big you never had the opportunity to feel warm and cozy. A reptile's home, be it a turtle, lizard, gecko or snake, needs a comfortable home to live a comfortable life.
Always try to make your reptile's tank reflect its natural habitat. That's why when researching reptile supplies it's important to discover where, in the wild, your reptile lives and what it would expect to have in its surroundings. The more at home it feels, the healthier it will be and the longer it should live.
Your tank can be made a glass or acrylic terrarium. Depending on the reptile you're getting, make sure that it's durable enough and tightly sealed so that the reptile cannot crawl out of their tank. Different reptiles require different temperatures within their environment so be sure to inquire how your tank should be heated and what specific temperature the tank should remain at. Additionally, the correct lighting is essential as is humidity and dryness. Should your reptile have light at certain times of the day? Should the light be on all the time? These are questions that good research will answer.
Lastly, it's important to position the tank in a place that gives them seclusion and also provides safety for the people around them. Some people are fearful of reptiles and don't like to be near them (let alone see them). Other people might want to touch your reptile and stick their hands in a tank when they shouldn't. That's why where you put your reptile's tank is almost as important as how you set it up.
Remember, getting reptile supplies may not always mean just choosing something off the shelf and setting your reptile inside. It also means to do some investigating about your reptile's natural habitat, what helps it survive and what makes it happy. A happy reptile is a healthy reptile.
When it comes to reptile supplies, it's important to gather as much information as possible. From food and exercise to the kind of reptile tank you get, the more you know about your new pet, the better the two of you will get along.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RJ_Price
When it comes to reptile supplies, their home is of profound importance. That means setting up a reptile tank that is spacious enough for when they get to their full size. Think how you would feel if you had to live in a room that was so small you couldn't even turn around or so big you never had the opportunity to feel warm and cozy. A reptile's home, be it a turtle, lizard, gecko or snake, needs a comfortable home to live a comfortable life.
Always try to make your reptile's tank reflect its natural habitat. That's why when researching reptile supplies it's important to discover where, in the wild, your reptile lives and what it would expect to have in its surroundings. The more at home it feels, the healthier it will be and the longer it should live.
Your tank can be made a glass or acrylic terrarium. Depending on the reptile you're getting, make sure that it's durable enough and tightly sealed so that the reptile cannot crawl out of their tank. Different reptiles require different temperatures within their environment so be sure to inquire how your tank should be heated and what specific temperature the tank should remain at. Additionally, the correct lighting is essential as is humidity and dryness. Should your reptile have light at certain times of the day? Should the light be on all the time? These are questions that good research will answer.
Lastly, it's important to position the tank in a place that gives them seclusion and also provides safety for the people around them. Some people are fearful of reptiles and don't like to be near them (let alone see them). Other people might want to touch your reptile and stick their hands in a tank when they shouldn't. That's why where you put your reptile's tank is almost as important as how you set it up.
Remember, getting reptile supplies may not always mean just choosing something off the shelf and setting your reptile inside. It also means to do some investigating about your reptile's natural habitat, what helps it survive and what makes it happy. A happy reptile is a healthy reptile.
When it comes to reptile supplies, it's important to gather as much information as possible. From food and exercise to the kind of reptile tank you get, the more you know about your new pet, the better the two of you will get along.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RJ_Price
Leopard Gecko Pets
If you want a great pet a Leopard Gecko is one of the best with their great personality all in one small package. If you look you can find a good Gecko Sale to save on money. They are originally from the hot dry places like Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Iran. Most of their day is spent in underground borrows and are mostly nocturnal.
When they live in their natural habitat they have very few different colors and patterns but with breeding in captivity there are hundreds or even thousands of different colors and patterns. Being small and their friendly temperament Leopard Geckos are a very good beginners reptile pet. Being easy to care for and their small size their entire life can be a happy one in a ten gallon aquarium. A couple of good things about having a Leopard Gecko for a pet is that they are very affordable and they don't take up very much room.
They can live up to thirty years if they have good care by using a few good rules and not making the mistakes that a new gecko pet owner could make. Lighting is one of the first important things, with mistakes being made very easily, by first time pet owners. They spend a good share of their day in underground burrows and come out at night to start hunting so keeping them in a area with bright lights will cause them to be very stressful. Some say UVB light is alright but it is still out for debate.
Get a very good under the tank heat pad to put under their tank and don't throw away your money buying a heat lamp which with the brightness will only be added stress. Some pads you can buy can be overly hot and can be bad for your gecko. A temperature gun is recommended to have the right temperature at any given part of the tank. These temperature guns are much better than the adhesive or digital prob thermometers because they can measure the temperature only at the spot they are placed and can be misleading.
Humidity is another very important thing for a gecko and this is easy to do with a small dish or may be Rubbermaid or Tupperware filled with paper towels that are wet, coco fibers that are moist, or sphagnum moss that is moist. Use only paper towels for baby geckos because the babies have a tendency to eat different things that might not be good for them.
To make the hiding place have a opening big enough for the gecko to get in and out of and whatever you use inside,paper towels, coco fibers, sphagnum moss, just make sure it is kept moist. Have the humidity hide right over the heat pad because without the heat you will have only a wet box. The heat makes the humidity and without the heat there is no humidity.
Don't make a mistake of buying a sand substrate because it looks great and tempting because this is not what a gecko in the wild lives on. Even though they say that the commercial sands are safe for geckos, even the calcium based sands, are not safe for geckos. Natural sand is round but processed sand has squared edges and can cause impaction if eaten or ingested some way. They will not be able to go to the bathroom and will have to have medical attention.
What do you use for substrate now that we know that sand is not to be used for your pet gecko. There are different things that can be used but the best substrate that I have found is reptile carpet. The reptile carpet is similar to felt and is designed for Leopard Gecko cage or tank. It can be purchased at about any pet store. If your little gecko messes on it all you have to do is rinse it off with hot water and use it again and again. There could be one slight problem with reptile carpet is that for very young geckos their toes can get caught in it so for young ones go ahead and use paper towels. This way your young one will not lose a toe and besides that they are cheap and easy to dispose of.
Dennis Killian
http://www.geckosale.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dennis_Killian
When they live in their natural habitat they have very few different colors and patterns but with breeding in captivity there are hundreds or even thousands of different colors and patterns. Being small and their friendly temperament Leopard Geckos are a very good beginners reptile pet. Being easy to care for and their small size their entire life can be a happy one in a ten gallon aquarium. A couple of good things about having a Leopard Gecko for a pet is that they are very affordable and they don't take up very much room.
They can live up to thirty years if they have good care by using a few good rules and not making the mistakes that a new gecko pet owner could make. Lighting is one of the first important things, with mistakes being made very easily, by first time pet owners. They spend a good share of their day in underground burrows and come out at night to start hunting so keeping them in a area with bright lights will cause them to be very stressful. Some say UVB light is alright but it is still out for debate.
Get a very good under the tank heat pad to put under their tank and don't throw away your money buying a heat lamp which with the brightness will only be added stress. Some pads you can buy can be overly hot and can be bad for your gecko. A temperature gun is recommended to have the right temperature at any given part of the tank. These temperature guns are much better than the adhesive or digital prob thermometers because they can measure the temperature only at the spot they are placed and can be misleading.
Humidity is another very important thing for a gecko and this is easy to do with a small dish or may be Rubbermaid or Tupperware filled with paper towels that are wet, coco fibers that are moist, or sphagnum moss that is moist. Use only paper towels for baby geckos because the babies have a tendency to eat different things that might not be good for them.
To make the hiding place have a opening big enough for the gecko to get in and out of and whatever you use inside,paper towels, coco fibers, sphagnum moss, just make sure it is kept moist. Have the humidity hide right over the heat pad because without the heat you will have only a wet box. The heat makes the humidity and without the heat there is no humidity.
Don't make a mistake of buying a sand substrate because it looks great and tempting because this is not what a gecko in the wild lives on. Even though they say that the commercial sands are safe for geckos, even the calcium based sands, are not safe for geckos. Natural sand is round but processed sand has squared edges and can cause impaction if eaten or ingested some way. They will not be able to go to the bathroom and will have to have medical attention.
What do you use for substrate now that we know that sand is not to be used for your pet gecko. There are different things that can be used but the best substrate that I have found is reptile carpet. The reptile carpet is similar to felt and is designed for Leopard Gecko cage or tank. It can be purchased at about any pet store. If your little gecko messes on it all you have to do is rinse it off with hot water and use it again and again. There could be one slight problem with reptile carpet is that for very young geckos their toes can get caught in it so for young ones go ahead and use paper towels. This way your young one will not lose a toe and besides that they are cheap and easy to dispose of.
Dennis Killian
http://www.geckosale.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dennis_Killian
The Pros & Cons of Owning A Pet Tree Frog
One of the more interesting exotic pets you could own is a frog. Many people do not know this, but pet frogs can come in a lot of different sizes and colors, and they can have different habitats making each type of frog unique. One species of frog you can keep as a pet, is a White's Tree Frog, which is also known as the Dumpy Tree Frog. These frogs come from Australia, Indonesia and New Guinea and, like their name suggests, generally lives among trees and plants.
When choosing first exotic pet or just your first pet of any type, a frog is the perfect choice, as they are generally very easy to look after and care for. This frog can grow to around 4-5 inches in length, meaning their home does not have to be extremely large. They are not a very active type of frog, and will usually sit for a long time staring into space. However, they are more of a nocturnal animal, meaning they will become more active during the night time.
White's Tree Frogs are very good around people, and even children. You can handle them and they will climb around you. They do however have very sensitive skin like all amphibians, so you must take extra care when handling them to make sure your hands are free of any nasty chemicals. These types of frogs can live for around 15 years, so make sure you are really dedicated when you are getting one as a pet.
Feeding them can be the most interesting part of owning frogs, getting to see them eat live animals like they would in the wild. Their main diet is crickets which must be alive for the frog to be interested in. So if you don't like the idea of keeping a box of insects in your house, then a pet frog might not be for you! Other insects these frogs can eat are beetles, cockroaches and grasshoppers. The amount you feed the frog depends entirely on the frog itself. Since they aren't a very active animal, a few crickets every 2 days should be enough.
A downside to owning this frogs is that, like all other animals, they can get diseases and illnesses which can be expensive to cure. However, keeping the frog in a good habitat, and feeding it a healthy diet should let it live a healthy life. One of the more common illnesses the frogs may get is stress which can be caused by over handling and their habitat, which is why you should try to allow the frogs to live as naturally as possible.
Overall, owning a pet frog such as the Whites Tree Frog can be very rewarding. This exotic pet isn't too much work to look after, but can be very interesting at the same time - especially at feeding time. If you aren't bothered about feeding the frogs live insects and you are dedicated to looking after it in its long life span then this is the perfect exotic animal for you.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
When choosing first exotic pet or just your first pet of any type, a frog is the perfect choice, as they are generally very easy to look after and care for. This frog can grow to around 4-5 inches in length, meaning their home does not have to be extremely large. They are not a very active type of frog, and will usually sit for a long time staring into space. However, they are more of a nocturnal animal, meaning they will become more active during the night time.
White's Tree Frogs are very good around people, and even children. You can handle them and they will climb around you. They do however have very sensitive skin like all amphibians, so you must take extra care when handling them to make sure your hands are free of any nasty chemicals. These types of frogs can live for around 15 years, so make sure you are really dedicated when you are getting one as a pet.
Feeding them can be the most interesting part of owning frogs, getting to see them eat live animals like they would in the wild. Their main diet is crickets which must be alive for the frog to be interested in. So if you don't like the idea of keeping a box of insects in your house, then a pet frog might not be for you! Other insects these frogs can eat are beetles, cockroaches and grasshoppers. The amount you feed the frog depends entirely on the frog itself. Since they aren't a very active animal, a few crickets every 2 days should be enough.
A downside to owning this frogs is that, like all other animals, they can get diseases and illnesses which can be expensive to cure. However, keeping the frog in a good habitat, and feeding it a healthy diet should let it live a healthy life. One of the more common illnesses the frogs may get is stress which can be caused by over handling and their habitat, which is why you should try to allow the frogs to live as naturally as possible.
Overall, owning a pet frog such as the Whites Tree Frog can be very rewarding. This exotic pet isn't too much work to look after, but can be very interesting at the same time - especially at feeding time. If you aren't bothered about feeding the frogs live insects and you are dedicated to looking after it in its long life span then this is the perfect exotic animal for you.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
The Orange Leopard Gecko Collection
Orange colored leopard geckos are now starting to emerge in the reptile population. Let me describe to you some of the collections and its characteristics.
Bright line bell albinos
Bright bells are characterized as exuding intense and vividly deep orange color of the body and head. Most of which posses a contrasting color patterns and markings of lavender, lime yellow, and maroon that enhances the depth of the majority of its color orange body and head. They also show the dorsal stripe that was developed by Albey Scholls. The stripes vary from one gecko to the other bright line geckos. The tangerine trait of this particular species will start to manifest when it reaches about 30 - 50 grams.
Nonetheless, as they age the bright orange coloration will also start to deteriorate but the good news is the color loss is only minimal.
Bright line is a cross bred of Dorsal Stripe Tangerine from Albey and Tangerine Bell Albinos.
Bright Bell Enigma Albinos
Bell Enigma is the result of the cross breeding of the best Bright line bell albinos with Tangerine Bell Enigma Albinos. The combination of these species certainly created a new stunning and attractive aberrant patterns and head markings.
They are characterized as having an intense color head pattern and markings along with the dorsal stripe from its parents. The Enigma traits do not only intensify the color but also came up with new unique features that are not found in non-enigma bright bells.
Hiss "Hybino" Bell Albinos
This is a product of breeding Kelli Hammack's Bell albinos which is described as possessing 85% carrot tail with a matching color of its body.
The hiss hybino can be identified by its strong orange body color with less or no body markings. They also have an extreme and full colored carrot tail. Hiss albino is another type of orange leopard gecko that most enthusiasts are fond of.
Red Stripe Bell Albinos
These geckos have beautiful lavender color surrounded with a well defined orange stripe. Most of the red stripe bells come in an intense shade of orange on its tails and heads. The orange stripe is often with a deeper shade of orange borderline exhibiting a more appealing contrast of lavender and orange.
Dorsal Stripe Tangerines
Dorsal stripes comes in vibrant and intensely deep orange body color in which a line with a light yellow orange color that runs through its dorsal. One good factor about these species is that they generally keep the intensity of its color throughout adulthood as well as throughout the breeding process. They seem not to dull much as they age which makes them more lovable.
There are more orange leopard gecko emerging from these species, find out more about these reptiles soon.
Lily Green has been caring for Leopard Geckos for over 15 years and is an author on the subject. It is her goal to see to it that Leopard Geckos are cared for properly. To get more useful tips about orange leopard gecko or get a copy of her FREE 'Leopard Gecko Care' mini-course feel free to visit her site at Leopard Gecko Information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lilly_Green
Bright line bell albinos
Bright bells are characterized as exuding intense and vividly deep orange color of the body and head. Most of which posses a contrasting color patterns and markings of lavender, lime yellow, and maroon that enhances the depth of the majority of its color orange body and head. They also show the dorsal stripe that was developed by Albey Scholls. The stripes vary from one gecko to the other bright line geckos. The tangerine trait of this particular species will start to manifest when it reaches about 30 - 50 grams.
Nonetheless, as they age the bright orange coloration will also start to deteriorate but the good news is the color loss is only minimal.
Bright line is a cross bred of Dorsal Stripe Tangerine from Albey and Tangerine Bell Albinos.
Bright Bell Enigma Albinos
Bell Enigma is the result of the cross breeding of the best Bright line bell albinos with Tangerine Bell Enigma Albinos. The combination of these species certainly created a new stunning and attractive aberrant patterns and head markings.
They are characterized as having an intense color head pattern and markings along with the dorsal stripe from its parents. The Enigma traits do not only intensify the color but also came up with new unique features that are not found in non-enigma bright bells.
Hiss "Hybino" Bell Albinos
This is a product of breeding Kelli Hammack's Bell albinos which is described as possessing 85% carrot tail with a matching color of its body.
The hiss hybino can be identified by its strong orange body color with less or no body markings. They also have an extreme and full colored carrot tail. Hiss albino is another type of orange leopard gecko that most enthusiasts are fond of.
Red Stripe Bell Albinos
These geckos have beautiful lavender color surrounded with a well defined orange stripe. Most of the red stripe bells come in an intense shade of orange on its tails and heads. The orange stripe is often with a deeper shade of orange borderline exhibiting a more appealing contrast of lavender and orange.
Dorsal Stripe Tangerines
Dorsal stripes comes in vibrant and intensely deep orange body color in which a line with a light yellow orange color that runs through its dorsal. One good factor about these species is that they generally keep the intensity of its color throughout adulthood as well as throughout the breeding process. They seem not to dull much as they age which makes them more lovable.
There are more orange leopard gecko emerging from these species, find out more about these reptiles soon.
Lily Green has been caring for Leopard Geckos for over 15 years and is an author on the subject. It is her goal to see to it that Leopard Geckos are cared for properly. To get more useful tips about orange leopard gecko or get a copy of her FREE 'Leopard Gecko Care' mini-course feel free to visit her site at Leopard Gecko Information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lilly_Green
Corn Snakes As Pets - The Pros & Cons
Pet owners have made snakes one of the more popular exotic pets. A snake in particular that is popular with beginners is the Corn Snake. They can be selectively bred, meaning they come in all sorts of different colors and patterns making it a very interesting animal to own.
One of the obvious advantages of owning a Corn Snake is the fact that its not poisonous, and will rarely bite its owner. Even if it does bite, their teeth are so small you probably will not notice it. They are a very docile animal, and usually do not mind being handled by humans. When you decide to buy your first one, you must dedicate a long time to it as they can live up to 20 years. They do not grow too large though, normally not more than 4 feet long.
Something you must be careful of when creating the pet snakes home, is that there are no places where the snake can get out of, as they are brilliant escape artists. Make sure their cage is quite large and has a properly fitted lid. Any time you take the lid off make sure to put it back securely as they can push this it off to escape. Also, the cage should contain somewhere the snake can hide, such as a box, which will make it feel secure.
Feeding a Corn Snake can be the most interesting part and not for the squeamish. They generally live off mice or small rats that have already been killed. Be sure not to feed too large a rat to smaller snakes as they will find it hard to consume. Also, they only need to be fed once a week. One of the downsides to feeding the snake dead mice and rats is that you have to keep them frozen, so you need to make sure everyone in the household is happy with that.
Like all living creatures, your pet snake will need water to survive. A bowl of water, that cannot be knocked over by the snake, is ideal. Also make sure the water is regularly changed. This type of snake is a hardy species and will not easily become ill, making them a very cost effective exotic pet. They both eat well and shed their skin well, which some snakes in captivity have problems with.
Although you might expect an exotic pet to be a good companion and have a relationship with its owner, this is not the case with snakes. Unlike dogs and other pet animals, they will not respond to you and might not always appreciate the attention you give them.
Even with that shortcoming the Corn Snake can make a very good exotic pet for first time owners. The many different patterns and colors make them very unique. They are extremely easy to care for and seem to enjoy being handled. A big plus is they will not bite your hand off or poison you like some other snakes or exotic animals.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
One of the obvious advantages of owning a Corn Snake is the fact that its not poisonous, and will rarely bite its owner. Even if it does bite, their teeth are so small you probably will not notice it. They are a very docile animal, and usually do not mind being handled by humans. When you decide to buy your first one, you must dedicate a long time to it as they can live up to 20 years. They do not grow too large though, normally not more than 4 feet long.
Something you must be careful of when creating the pet snakes home, is that there are no places where the snake can get out of, as they are brilliant escape artists. Make sure their cage is quite large and has a properly fitted lid. Any time you take the lid off make sure to put it back securely as they can push this it off to escape. Also, the cage should contain somewhere the snake can hide, such as a box, which will make it feel secure.
Feeding a Corn Snake can be the most interesting part and not for the squeamish. They generally live off mice or small rats that have already been killed. Be sure not to feed too large a rat to smaller snakes as they will find it hard to consume. Also, they only need to be fed once a week. One of the downsides to feeding the snake dead mice and rats is that you have to keep them frozen, so you need to make sure everyone in the household is happy with that.
Like all living creatures, your pet snake will need water to survive. A bowl of water, that cannot be knocked over by the snake, is ideal. Also make sure the water is regularly changed. This type of snake is a hardy species and will not easily become ill, making them a very cost effective exotic pet. They both eat well and shed their skin well, which some snakes in captivity have problems with.
Although you might expect an exotic pet to be a good companion and have a relationship with its owner, this is not the case with snakes. Unlike dogs and other pet animals, they will not respond to you and might not always appreciate the attention you give them.
Even with that shortcoming the Corn Snake can make a very good exotic pet for first time owners. The many different patterns and colors make them very unique. They are extremely easy to care for and seem to enjoy being handled. A big plus is they will not bite your hand off or poison you like some other snakes or exotic animals.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Caring For an Outdoor Tortoise
Creating a Home for Your Tortoise in an Outside Enclosure
Even if you keep your pet in an inside enclosure most of the time it will appreciate some time spent outdoors (depending on the climate). If you live in a climate similar to the natural habitat of your tortoise you will be able to keep your it outside all year round providing you have a secure enclosure.
Outdoor Enclosure
As with an indoor home the size you need to provide will depend on the species of tortoise and how big it is, or will be. A 12 inch specimen will require a 3 square yard enclosure, approximately 9ft x 9ft.
Construction of an Outside Enclosure
If you choose a wooden structure firstly dig a trench at least 6 inches deep and 6 inches wide. The height of the walls should be at least twice the length of the tortoise. There should be a base of chicken wire fixed to the bottom of the structure and then buried. If you do not fix some form of base your pet will eventually burrow and may dig under the wooden walls and escape! Some keepers use concrete for the walls but you will still need to fix an escape proof bottom.
Don't build your enclosure using only chicken wire or your tortoise will be constantly trying to escape. Always provide a cover for the enclosure as protection from predators such as your dog or cat.
A Tortoise House
Your tortoise will need a house to live in inside the enclosure. This could be a wooden box elevated from the ground slightly. A good choice is to use a plastic doghouse as they don't leak or rot and they do hold the heat relatively well. Make sure the doorway does not have too pronounced a 'lip' or this may hamper him from entering and exiting. It may take some time for your tortoise to get used to being put into this new house. Keep placing him back inside and at night place inside and block the exit as there is more chance of predators at night. Your pet will soon learn to go into his new house voluntarily. Remember to unblock the door in the morning or he may overheat.
Substrate
Again you have a choice of materials to choose from for this job but remember you will have to clean it out regularly so choose one you feel happy buying or changing regularly. Bark is a very good substrate for outside enclosures as it is a natural product and is easy to clean and replace.
Heating
Supplemental heat for the outside enclosure is important if you live in a climate that is not similar to the tortoise's natural habitat. Place an incandescent light with a red bulb (for heat not light) over the top of the tortoise house.
Other Elements to Include
Water: All tortoises require water but make sure it is in a shallow dish that will not cause him to tip over.
Hiding places: You will need to provide places for your tortoise to hide away so that it does not become too stressed. Plant pots on their side (cleaned with no residue of fertilizer) Safe non-toxic plants and flowers will also provide some food as well as shade.
Rocks/Logs: Your tortoise will like to climb so place some rocks and logs inside the enclosure but make sure they are not too close to the enclosure walls as the tortoise may be able to gain escape if they are! Don't place anything made of plastic such as dogs chew toys or children's toys as the tortoise will bite on them and may become ill.
Burrowing: Provide something for your tortoise to dig and burrow into. He will be less likely to try to dig his way out under the walls if he has some material in which to dig. You will have to provide some soft sandy soil for your females to lay their eggs if you want to breed your tortoise?
Cleaning the Enclosure: You must keep your outside enclosure clean to prevent disease and parasites. Clean the waste food and excrement daily. Rake out the bark that may have been carried into the tortoise house. Provide clean water daily.
Above all if you are planning to care for an outdoor tortoise you should ensure the home you provide will be the best possible and safe environment for your pet. If you live in an area of the world conducive to your particular species living outside then this is all to the good. You still need to think very carefully about what sort of enclosure to build but if you do it properly you will have a very happy tortoise!
Is a tortoise enthusiast and has been keeping tortoises for many years. If you are interested to find out more about these amazing creatures go to TortoiseTips
If you want the best environment for your pet then you have to read the in-depth guide to keeping a tortoise outside http://tortoisetips.com/tortoise-housing/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear
Even if you keep your pet in an inside enclosure most of the time it will appreciate some time spent outdoors (depending on the climate). If you live in a climate similar to the natural habitat of your tortoise you will be able to keep your it outside all year round providing you have a secure enclosure.
Outdoor Enclosure
As with an indoor home the size you need to provide will depend on the species of tortoise and how big it is, or will be. A 12 inch specimen will require a 3 square yard enclosure, approximately 9ft x 9ft.
Construction of an Outside Enclosure
If you choose a wooden structure firstly dig a trench at least 6 inches deep and 6 inches wide. The height of the walls should be at least twice the length of the tortoise. There should be a base of chicken wire fixed to the bottom of the structure and then buried. If you do not fix some form of base your pet will eventually burrow and may dig under the wooden walls and escape! Some keepers use concrete for the walls but you will still need to fix an escape proof bottom.
Don't build your enclosure using only chicken wire or your tortoise will be constantly trying to escape. Always provide a cover for the enclosure as protection from predators such as your dog or cat.
A Tortoise House
Your tortoise will need a house to live in inside the enclosure. This could be a wooden box elevated from the ground slightly. A good choice is to use a plastic doghouse as they don't leak or rot and they do hold the heat relatively well. Make sure the doorway does not have too pronounced a 'lip' or this may hamper him from entering and exiting. It may take some time for your tortoise to get used to being put into this new house. Keep placing him back inside and at night place inside and block the exit as there is more chance of predators at night. Your pet will soon learn to go into his new house voluntarily. Remember to unblock the door in the morning or he may overheat.
Substrate
Again you have a choice of materials to choose from for this job but remember you will have to clean it out regularly so choose one you feel happy buying or changing regularly. Bark is a very good substrate for outside enclosures as it is a natural product and is easy to clean and replace.
Heating
Supplemental heat for the outside enclosure is important if you live in a climate that is not similar to the tortoise's natural habitat. Place an incandescent light with a red bulb (for heat not light) over the top of the tortoise house.
Other Elements to Include
Water: All tortoises require water but make sure it is in a shallow dish that will not cause him to tip over.
Hiding places: You will need to provide places for your tortoise to hide away so that it does not become too stressed. Plant pots on their side (cleaned with no residue of fertilizer) Safe non-toxic plants and flowers will also provide some food as well as shade.
Rocks/Logs: Your tortoise will like to climb so place some rocks and logs inside the enclosure but make sure they are not too close to the enclosure walls as the tortoise may be able to gain escape if they are! Don't place anything made of plastic such as dogs chew toys or children's toys as the tortoise will bite on them and may become ill.
Burrowing: Provide something for your tortoise to dig and burrow into. He will be less likely to try to dig his way out under the walls if he has some material in which to dig. You will have to provide some soft sandy soil for your females to lay their eggs if you want to breed your tortoise?
Cleaning the Enclosure: You must keep your outside enclosure clean to prevent disease and parasites. Clean the waste food and excrement daily. Rake out the bark that may have been carried into the tortoise house. Provide clean water daily.
Above all if you are planning to care for an outdoor tortoise you should ensure the home you provide will be the best possible and safe environment for your pet. If you live in an area of the world conducive to your particular species living outside then this is all to the good. You still need to think very carefully about what sort of enclosure to build but if you do it properly you will have a very happy tortoise!
Is a tortoise enthusiast and has been keeping tortoises for many years. If you are interested to find out more about these amazing creatures go to TortoiseTips
If you want the best environment for your pet then you have to read the in-depth guide to keeping a tortoise outside http://tortoisetips.com/tortoise-housing/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear
The 5 Golden Rules of Caring For a Green Iguana
Golden rules is a name we give to special rules that you should always remember and never forget. When it comes to caring for a green iguana, these rules are extremely important and useful guideposts to help you keep on course and going in the right direction. Your ultimate goal, of course, is to have a happy and healthy pet iguana.
Here are the 5 Golden Rules to properly take care of a green iguana.
Golden Rule # 1, Maintain the proper cage temperature. The reason for this is iguanas can't stay healthy if their habitat temperature isn't correct. If they get too cool, they can't digest their food, and can slowly starve to death. Remember, always maintain the proper temperature as part of your iguana's habitat.
Golden Rule # 2, Keep up the proper humidity. This can is also very important, because iguanas come from hot, humid climates and need a high humidity to avoid dehydration. Be sure and remember that while iguanas don't always drink a lot of water, they do like having a tub or pool of water they can soak in.
Golden Rule # 3, Feed your iguana the appropriate diet.. There's good reasons you'll want to do this. Among them is that even though your iguana may be eating lots of food, if it's not the best food, they could still die of malnutrition - the #1 source of death in pet iguanas.
Golden Rule # 4, Give your iguana lots of space. They must have room to maneuver, stretch out and climb, so make certain that the habitat you have is large enough for your iguana.. You can accomplish this by building an outdoor habitat if you reside in a warmer climate, or giving it a spare room or garage in your house. Also, let your iguana out of its cage to roam around your house. They love to stretch their legs, too.
Golden Rule # 5, Make sure your iguana receives enough Ultra violet rays. Ways to achieve this step include allowing it to sit outside on a sunny days and by attaching UV lights to the cage.. You'll want to do this carefully. It is a matter of life and death for your iguana. Without the proper Ultra violet rays, they can't process calcium and can end up with bone disease.
Rely on these Golden Rules to properly take care of your pet green iguana. Follow them and you'll ultimately find that you have much more success raising a happy and healthy green iguana.
Discover even more ways to keep your iguana healthy and happy by going to our iguana as pet web site at iguanaaspet.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lizzie_Blount
Here are the 5 Golden Rules to properly take care of a green iguana.
Golden Rule # 1, Maintain the proper cage temperature. The reason for this is iguanas can't stay healthy if their habitat temperature isn't correct. If they get too cool, they can't digest their food, and can slowly starve to death. Remember, always maintain the proper temperature as part of your iguana's habitat.
Golden Rule # 2, Keep up the proper humidity. This can is also very important, because iguanas come from hot, humid climates and need a high humidity to avoid dehydration. Be sure and remember that while iguanas don't always drink a lot of water, they do like having a tub or pool of water they can soak in.
Golden Rule # 3, Feed your iguana the appropriate diet.. There's good reasons you'll want to do this. Among them is that even though your iguana may be eating lots of food, if it's not the best food, they could still die of malnutrition - the #1 source of death in pet iguanas.
Golden Rule # 4, Give your iguana lots of space. They must have room to maneuver, stretch out and climb, so make certain that the habitat you have is large enough for your iguana.. You can accomplish this by building an outdoor habitat if you reside in a warmer climate, or giving it a spare room or garage in your house. Also, let your iguana out of its cage to roam around your house. They love to stretch their legs, too.
Golden Rule # 5, Make sure your iguana receives enough Ultra violet rays. Ways to achieve this step include allowing it to sit outside on a sunny days and by attaching UV lights to the cage.. You'll want to do this carefully. It is a matter of life and death for your iguana. Without the proper Ultra violet rays, they can't process calcium and can end up with bone disease.
Rely on these Golden Rules to properly take care of your pet green iguana. Follow them and you'll ultimately find that you have much more success raising a happy and healthy green iguana.
Discover even more ways to keep your iguana healthy and happy by going to our iguana as pet web site at iguanaaspet.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lizzie_Blount
How to Deal With a Snake Bite
Snake bites are not something anybody wants to think about, the fact is that you may have to if you ever get bitten. Most snake bites take place in India. It has been estimated that over 2 million people get bitten by a snake every year.
Of all the people that get bitten by a snake there are as much as 100,000 people that die from a snake bite. The main causes of most snake bites are the lack of medicine available. Deaths from snake bites are higher in the less developed countries because they do not usually have anti-venom on hand when people in these countries are bitten.
Here are some things that you don't do when bitten by a snake -
If you are ever bitten by a snake never mind what you have seen in films, under no circumstances should you ever try to suck out the poison. The only time this may be acceptable if you are sucking out your own poison. You should never allow someone else to attempt to suck out your poison. Another person sucking on your would is likely to cause infection.
Although sucking out venom is a possibility it is known to be not very effect. Usually the amount of poison that you can suck out is not worth the effort. You may also try to suck out venom with a suction device as-well, but just like manual sucking this is not very useful also
If you do attempt to suck out your own venom, you can do it but not immediately. before you do any kind of sucking you should also take into consideration keeping calm and lying still. To keep your self calm you will need to take deep breaths you should also try to keep the bit above your heart. Keeping calm will ensure that the venom does not spread very quickly and not moving around will ensure that the venom does not spread also. This are things you should consider before you attempt to suck out any venom.
The author invites you to check out his other material, he has been writing for a number of years on various topics you can check out his sites rear fog lamps and replacement fog lamps feel free to publish this article on your site with all links in tact
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Jefferies
Of all the people that get bitten by a snake there are as much as 100,000 people that die from a snake bite. The main causes of most snake bites are the lack of medicine available. Deaths from snake bites are higher in the less developed countries because they do not usually have anti-venom on hand when people in these countries are bitten.
Here are some things that you don't do when bitten by a snake -
If you are ever bitten by a snake never mind what you have seen in films, under no circumstances should you ever try to suck out the poison. The only time this may be acceptable if you are sucking out your own poison. You should never allow someone else to attempt to suck out your poison. Another person sucking on your would is likely to cause infection.
Although sucking out venom is a possibility it is known to be not very effect. Usually the amount of poison that you can suck out is not worth the effort. You may also try to suck out venom with a suction device as-well, but just like manual sucking this is not very useful also
If you do attempt to suck out your own venom, you can do it but not immediately. before you do any kind of sucking you should also take into consideration keeping calm and lying still. To keep your self calm you will need to take deep breaths you should also try to keep the bit above your heart. Keeping calm will ensure that the venom does not spread very quickly and not moving around will ensure that the venom does not spread also. This are things you should consider before you attempt to suck out any venom.
The author invites you to check out his other material, he has been writing for a number of years on various topics you can check out his sites rear fog lamps and replacement fog lamps feel free to publish this article on your site with all links in tact
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Jefferies
Does Your Leopard Gecko Have Any of These Health Problems?
The great news about leopard geckos is they can live long lives - up to and beyond 20 years! The bad news is they can develop health problems that shorten their lives significantly. If you know what to look for, have a vet who understands leopard geckos, and you pay attention to changes in their bodies or behavior you can circumvent any major problems.
5 Common Leopard Gecko Problems:
#1 - Injuries
This is very common, especially if you have two male geckos in the same vivarium. Male geckos always have a tendency to fight and thus, hurt each other. Don't keep male geckos together - male and female or two females.
Injuries can also occur if your geckos do not have their own space and the container is too crowded. Keep in mind that a 10 gallon aquarium is the right size for one gecko; two geckos will need a 20 gallon tank. Each of your lizards will want their own hiding place. The key to minimizing injuries is to pay attention - watching to see if behavior changes.
#2 - Infections in the mouth
If your leopard gecko has a mouth infection, the area around the mouth will appear swollen. Infections in the mouth can occur because of an accident, a cage that is dirty or possibly because of a fight with another gecko. Again, paying attention to any change in your gecko is critical. To treat an infection, you want to clean the area of the infection, check with your vet about getting an antibiotic.
#3 - Obstruction in digestive tract
Digestive tract infections occur when your gecko has eaten foreign substances - gravel, substrate, or sand. This substances can get stuck in the digestive system and lead to death. Be sure whatever substances are in the tank, that the particles are small enough to pass through the geckos system if ingested.
#4 - Infections of the respiratory system
Generally respiratory infections happen if the temperatures inside their vivarium are too cold over an extended period of time. You can tell if your gecko has an infection because you will see mucus bubbles around the nostrils and the breathing will be challenged. The key here is to keep the tank at the right temperature all the time.
#5 - Lack of needed calcium
Calcium is a necessary nutrient for leopard geckos - be sure that the diet includes enough calcium to keep this problem from occurring. Too much is not healthy nor is not enough.
It's a lot more fun to have healthy and happy geckos than to have unhealthy geckos - or even risk losing your gecko. Just by paying attention and knowing your gecko, these problems will not occur.
Jon learned the hard way (death of his first leopard gecko within 3 weeks) about the proper care, handling, and breeding of these lizards. Leopard geckos have a lifespan of 20 years if cared for properly. Start your mini-course today to learn how more about how to raise healthy, happy, beautiful geckos. Leopard Geckos, visit http://www.leopardgeckocaresite.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_Owens
5 Common Leopard Gecko Problems:
#1 - Injuries
This is very common, especially if you have two male geckos in the same vivarium. Male geckos always have a tendency to fight and thus, hurt each other. Don't keep male geckos together - male and female or two females.
Injuries can also occur if your geckos do not have their own space and the container is too crowded. Keep in mind that a 10 gallon aquarium is the right size for one gecko; two geckos will need a 20 gallon tank. Each of your lizards will want their own hiding place. The key to minimizing injuries is to pay attention - watching to see if behavior changes.
#2 - Infections in the mouth
If your leopard gecko has a mouth infection, the area around the mouth will appear swollen. Infections in the mouth can occur because of an accident, a cage that is dirty or possibly because of a fight with another gecko. Again, paying attention to any change in your gecko is critical. To treat an infection, you want to clean the area of the infection, check with your vet about getting an antibiotic.
#3 - Obstruction in digestive tract
Digestive tract infections occur when your gecko has eaten foreign substances - gravel, substrate, or sand. This substances can get stuck in the digestive system and lead to death. Be sure whatever substances are in the tank, that the particles are small enough to pass through the geckos system if ingested.
#4 - Infections of the respiratory system
Generally respiratory infections happen if the temperatures inside their vivarium are too cold over an extended period of time. You can tell if your gecko has an infection because you will see mucus bubbles around the nostrils and the breathing will be challenged. The key here is to keep the tank at the right temperature all the time.
#5 - Lack of needed calcium
Calcium is a necessary nutrient for leopard geckos - be sure that the diet includes enough calcium to keep this problem from occurring. Too much is not healthy nor is not enough.
It's a lot more fun to have healthy and happy geckos than to have unhealthy geckos - or even risk losing your gecko. Just by paying attention and knowing your gecko, these problems will not occur.
Jon learned the hard way (death of his first leopard gecko within 3 weeks) about the proper care, handling, and breeding of these lizards. Leopard geckos have a lifespan of 20 years if cared for properly. Start your mini-course today to learn how more about how to raise healthy, happy, beautiful geckos. Leopard Geckos, visit http://www.leopardgeckocaresite.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_Owens
Bearded Dragon Lizard - A Good Choice of Lizard
There are different Lizards that you can buy. A popular lizard to buy is the the Bearded dragon. They are not supper big usually grow to a medium size. The characteristics of a bearded dragon are timid they are also very social reptiles.
They are great because you will have no problem taming them too. Once tamed they love to be handled and that just ads to the experience of having one. The only problem that you may have with a bearded dragon is meeting its dietary needs as they are native to Australia
Taking care of your bearded dragon
If you have equipped your self properly, a little time and effort can over come any problems that you may have with your Lizard. Bearded dragons have a fully ranged diet they are omnivorous, that means they will eat vegetables, small animals and insects as well.
For the most part a Lizards diet is made up mostly of insects and the vegetables, but you can also feed them lizard mice, crickets, wax worms, earthworms and even cockroaches. The different types of plants they may east are, parsley, broccoli, apples, grapes and others. You can find out the others yourself.
If you have kids they will be happy to have a lizard providing that they like them. Although its should be noted that not every Lizard can make a good pet for the children. You will need to do all the research so that you choose the right type of one for the children. Most Lizards also like to swim and this is something that usually fascinates the kids.
The author invites you to check out his other material, he has been writing for a number of years on various topics you can check out his sites car fog lamps and hella fog lamps feel free to publish this article on your site with all links in tact
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Jefferies
They are great because you will have no problem taming them too. Once tamed they love to be handled and that just ads to the experience of having one. The only problem that you may have with a bearded dragon is meeting its dietary needs as they are native to Australia
Taking care of your bearded dragon
If you have equipped your self properly, a little time and effort can over come any problems that you may have with your Lizard. Bearded dragons have a fully ranged diet they are omnivorous, that means they will eat vegetables, small animals and insects as well.
For the most part a Lizards diet is made up mostly of insects and the vegetables, but you can also feed them lizard mice, crickets, wax worms, earthworms and even cockroaches. The different types of plants they may east are, parsley, broccoli, apples, grapes and others. You can find out the others yourself.
If you have kids they will be happy to have a lizard providing that they like them. Although its should be noted that not every Lizard can make a good pet for the children. You will need to do all the research so that you choose the right type of one for the children. Most Lizards also like to swim and this is something that usually fascinates the kids.
The author invites you to check out his other material, he has been writing for a number of years on various topics you can check out his sites car fog lamps and hella fog lamps feel free to publish this article on your site with all links in tact
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Jefferies
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Breeding Leopard Geckos
Leopard Geckos are relatively easy to breed compared to other types of reptiles. Put a healthy adult male with a healthy adult female and breeding will occur.
The female should be at least a year old, be ingesting plenty of calcium, and have good fat stores for the best chance of success.
The big difference between Leopard Geckos and most other reptiles is that instead of laying a clutch of eggs all at once, the female will lay two eggs at a time over a period of weeks. Eight to ten eggs per season is the norm. Sometimes only one egg will be produced early in the cycle or if the female is a first timer.
Preparation
Make sure your female is receiving plenty of calcium before mating occurs and during gestation. She will also need extra food, especially after she begins to produce eggs.
A gravid female will walk with her body lower to the ground and if you gently examine her underside you can actually see the protrusion of the eggs. At this point a nesting area must be initiated in the habitat, although the humid hide can also serve the same purpose.
Deli cups (16 oz) lined with damp sphagnum moss makes a good laying ground inside the habitat, but there are many variations on this. Using something see-through makes it easy to see when there are eggs that need to go into the incubator.
When removing the eggs for incubation do not turn them. They must be kept in the same position. The baby has attached itself to the top of the egg and if the egg is rotated the embryo will die.
Remember this especially if you are impatient and must candle your eggs to check for fertility. You must not - at any time - turn those eggs!
Incubation
A plastic shoebox with a 2-4 inch layer of damp vermiculite is an acceptable bed for the eggs that will take up to eight weeks to hatch depending on your choice of temperature. Set the box, with the lid on to keep humidity in, inside the incubator and have it preheated and stable before your female begins to lay eggs.
For the eggs you want to produce females the temperature needs to be kept at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature for male hatchlings is 90 degrees.
If you want some eggs to develop into males and some into females, use separate incubators. Geckos hatched at a mid temp to get a mix of sexes produce lizards that do not become healthy, reproductive adults.
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "Gecko Care Made Easy," teaches Gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptiles. http://www.reptilegecko.com/beb.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
The female should be at least a year old, be ingesting plenty of calcium, and have good fat stores for the best chance of success.
The big difference between Leopard Geckos and most other reptiles is that instead of laying a clutch of eggs all at once, the female will lay two eggs at a time over a period of weeks. Eight to ten eggs per season is the norm. Sometimes only one egg will be produced early in the cycle or if the female is a first timer.
Preparation
Make sure your female is receiving plenty of calcium before mating occurs and during gestation. She will also need extra food, especially after she begins to produce eggs.
A gravid female will walk with her body lower to the ground and if you gently examine her underside you can actually see the protrusion of the eggs. At this point a nesting area must be initiated in the habitat, although the humid hide can also serve the same purpose.
Deli cups (16 oz) lined with damp sphagnum moss makes a good laying ground inside the habitat, but there are many variations on this. Using something see-through makes it easy to see when there are eggs that need to go into the incubator.
When removing the eggs for incubation do not turn them. They must be kept in the same position. The baby has attached itself to the top of the egg and if the egg is rotated the embryo will die.
Remember this especially if you are impatient and must candle your eggs to check for fertility. You must not - at any time - turn those eggs!
Incubation
A plastic shoebox with a 2-4 inch layer of damp vermiculite is an acceptable bed for the eggs that will take up to eight weeks to hatch depending on your choice of temperature. Set the box, with the lid on to keep humidity in, inside the incubator and have it preheated and stable before your female begins to lay eggs.
For the eggs you want to produce females the temperature needs to be kept at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature for male hatchlings is 90 degrees.
If you want some eggs to develop into males and some into females, use separate incubators. Geckos hatched at a mid temp to get a mix of sexes produce lizards that do not become healthy, reproductive adults.
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "Gecko Care Made Easy," teaches Gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptiles. http://www.reptilegecko.com/beb.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
The Amazing World of Carrot Tail Leopard Geckos
Leopard geckos had been brought into the United States to be used in the exotic pet business. These geckos arrived out of their natural environment with incredibly little information regarding this species. Since these geckos came from the wild, they were grouped into a couple of diverse varieties and subspecies. The exotic pet business was not conscious of these contrasts thus breeding them collectively which ensued in an extensive assortment of genetic variables creating many different colors, sizes, with designs.The variables are regularly genetically driven; meaning these variations may well be encompassed into upcoming generations as a result of selective breeding. What you see in these lizards came about as genetic errors that made one gecko diverse from another gecko.
The carrot tail geckos are lizards that comprise a lot of orange pigmentation in their tail. This orange pigmentation is commonly at the base of their tail but now and again the gecko might include as much as ninety percent of its tail covered in orange pigments. For a carrot tail to be classified, it must have at least fifteen percent or one-quarter of its tail orange. The amount of orange skin color will be different from a solid orange tail to a small band at the base of its tail. This characteristic is line bred, meaning, the two geckos that had the carrot tail attribute were bred and their babies will, in general, be carrot tails also.
For the leopard geckos to contain more carroting than previous generations, breed the lizards that have the largest amount of carroting collectively. Carrot head is another line bred feature. The characteristics of the carrot head are found with orangey spots on the top of the geckos head and generally will be elite to Tremper Albinos.
The carrot tail has been seen in many morphs. It can be looked at in RAPTOR's and Albey's Tangerine. These individual geckos are in addition to the Murphy and Patternless lizards but for the most part seen in the Hypo and Tangerine morphs and within all of the albino strains (Rainwater, Bell, with Tremper) in addition to a little in the Blizzards.
As you become more involved with your leopard geckos you might feel like breeding your own carrot tail lizards. You will want to factor in space, resources, in addition to time required, to control the breeding in addition to their little ones. You also need to pose questions to yourself - like what will happen to the little ones if they don't sell right away. Will you have the time and room to house them and assume care of them?
Everything considered, enjoy your new and expanding leopard gecko venture. Enjoy how fun, unique, interesting, in addition, how magnificent these geckos are.
Jon learned the hard way (death of his first leopard gecko within 3 weeks) about the proper care, handling, and breeding of these lizards. Leopard geckos have a lifespan of 20 years if cared for properly. Start today receiving your free mini-course on raising healthy, happy geckos Leopard Tail Gecko, visit http://www.leopardgeckocaresite.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_Owens
Feeding Your Leopard Gecko
The Leopard Gecko is a carnivore. They eat only meat proteins in the form of insects or worms. The staple diet of this lizard includes but is not limited to: crickets, mealworms, silkworms, superworms, and roaches.
The size of the insects offered should always be smaller than the space between the reptile's eyes. This prevents injuries that can occur when trying to swallow something that is too large.
Always gut load your feeder insects. This means to provide them with highly nutritional food, either commercially prepared or your own mix, before you feed them to your lizard. The insects will also need to be dusted with a calcium supplement.
Also be sure to provide a piece of potato or fruit to keep the insects hydrated. A wet sponge also works well. Giving your reptile hungry or dehydrated insects can cause your pet to become lunch for the insects. They will bite and burrow into your lizard - and will blind them as they see the moist eyes as a source of water.
This makes it important to remove any leftover feeders as soon as your reptile is no longer interested in eating.
You may also leave calcium in a shallow dish for the geckos and they will lick it as they feel the need.
If you give your Leopard Gecko insects or worms that are hungry and dehydrated they will not be receiving the high level of nutrition they need for optimum health.
As a general rule, the larger and older a cricket is, the less nutritional content and more chitin it contains. Chitin is the hard outer shell that is not digestible.
Hatching Leopard Geckos do not eat for about the first three days. Their yolk sack is digested during this period. They will shed and defecate before they are ready for their first meal.
Be sure to have insects small enough for them to consume. Tiny crickets and the smallest mealworms are good starters.
There is some controversy about feeding pre-killed prey, but live prey allows the Geckos to actively seek and find their own food providing activity and stimulation.
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "Gecko Care Made Easy," teaches Gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptiles. http://www.reptilegecko.com/beb.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
The size of the insects offered should always be smaller than the space between the reptile's eyes. This prevents injuries that can occur when trying to swallow something that is too large.
Always gut load your feeder insects. This means to provide them with highly nutritional food, either commercially prepared or your own mix, before you feed them to your lizard. The insects will also need to be dusted with a calcium supplement.
Also be sure to provide a piece of potato or fruit to keep the insects hydrated. A wet sponge also works well. Giving your reptile hungry or dehydrated insects can cause your pet to become lunch for the insects. They will bite and burrow into your lizard - and will blind them as they see the moist eyes as a source of water.
This makes it important to remove any leftover feeders as soon as your reptile is no longer interested in eating.
You may also leave calcium in a shallow dish for the geckos and they will lick it as they feel the need.
If you give your Leopard Gecko insects or worms that are hungry and dehydrated they will not be receiving the high level of nutrition they need for optimum health.
As a general rule, the larger and older a cricket is, the less nutritional content and more chitin it contains. Chitin is the hard outer shell that is not digestible.
Hatching Leopard Geckos do not eat for about the first three days. Their yolk sack is digested during this period. They will shed and defecate before they are ready for their first meal.
Be sure to have insects small enough for them to consume. Tiny crickets and the smallest mealworms are good starters.
There is some controversy about feeding pre-killed prey, but live prey allows the Geckos to actively seek and find their own food providing activity and stimulation.
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "Gecko Care Made Easy," teaches Gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptiles. http://www.reptilegecko.com/beb.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
Albino Leopard Gecko
When the word albino is used to describe a Leopard Gecko it does not indicate a lack of color. It only indicates a lack of black coloration. They also do not have to have red eyes to be considered albino.An albino Gecko's color may be hues of brown, gold, pink, white, yellow or orange. The variety of color and pattern in these animals are almost limitless - there is just no black skin or eye pigment at all.
Strain Types
There are currently three strains of Albino Leopard geckos.
• Tremper
• Rainwater
• Bell
The Tremper Albino Leopard gecko is the most common and is considered the original strain. Their color may be anywhere from brown to vivid white or even pinkish. The eye color of these geckos range from tan to bright red.
Rainwater Geckos are the smallest of the three strains of albinos. They are usually pinker in color and have darker eyes than the Tremper at adulthood.
The Bell strain stands out because they keep a paler pink eye color through adulthood. It is also not unusual for them to be more colorful and have more defined markings. The lavender Bell Albino Leopard Gecko is quite striking with its brown spots.
Genetic Incompatibility
The breeding of a male and female albino gecko from different strains will only produce normal looking Leopard Gecko Babies. This is because each strain has a different genotype. The albino gene is recessive, so two recessive genes have to line up just right to produce the phenotype (or look of) the albino lizard. Otherwise the dominate gene takes over and produces a normal looking lizard.
However these normal looking Geckos will carry the recessive gene for both albino strains.
Care of Albino Geckos
All Albino Geckos are very sensitive to light, especially as juveniles. They need to be kept in low light conditions or they will constantly hide and refuse to eat. Minimal lighting does not hinder their ability to catch and consume their prey.
Lighting is the only difference in care of normal or the albino Leopard Gecko.
Kat Magnus has been caring for geckos for over 25 years. Her newest book, "The Golden Book of Leopard Gecko Care," teaches gecko owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their reptiles. http://www.reptilegecko.com/beb.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kat_G_Magnus
Monday, August 9, 2010
Leopard Gecko Lifespan - What to Expect
The leopard gecko lifespan varies greatly depending on the knowledge of his keeper on the proper way of caring for reptiles that is an important factor in optimizing its ability to live longer.
How long a leopard can live will depend on how they are kept in captivity. Leopards are tough and may cause only a few problems as a pet as long as they are provided with the proper tank size and temperature, food, and anything that they need to keep them stress- free and healthy.
Let's talk about the proper temperature that leopards need. Used a thermostat controlled heater to keep the temperature constant between 29 - 31 degrees Celsius during the day and 22 - 25 degrees Celsius during the night. They do not need UV light since leopards are nocturnal. To provide gecko's with adequate heat and light place a 40 - 60 watt or an infra red bulb at one end of the tank. Or hide boxes may be placed inside the aquarium with different temperatures, one to help the regulate body temperature and the other one is humid which will help them shed off its skin to avoid infections or even cause the leopards blindness. For example if the skin near its eye does not totally shed off and are neglected will infect the eyes and may eventually cause the blindness. More so, because of negligence of its temperature may even create diseases which may also lead to the shortening of its lifespan.
Feeding them with the proper diet will also help prolong the leopard gecko lifespan. Generally, they are insectivorous therefore feed the baby with small meal-worms and crickets in small amounts while the adult gecko may be provided with crickets, small cockroaches, fruit flies and other insects. Crickets that are gut loaded are best considered as its staple food. Geckos also consumes its shed skin which is high in nutrition so let it be and do not remove it inside the enclosure.
If all these factors are seriously considered then be assured that your gecko will live its maximum life span. The average life of a leopard sensibly depends not just on the food but also the environment which your gecko is kept plays a very important role. Most likely a gecko can be alive between 10 to 20 years in the wild but for lizards in captivity normally is between 8 - 10 years. However, with the proper care and feeding your pet in captivity may be stretched from 10 - 15 years and in some case may have lived up to 20 years, though this is a rare chance but is possible.
Needless to say, the ultimate factor of the leopard gecko lifespan is the person who keeps and takes care of its pet. The leopard's health relies on how the keeper put an effort in conscientiously doing what is needed to raise a healthy and vigorous gecko.
Lily Green loves caring for leopard geckos and wants to share some information coming from personal experiences. Learn more about Leopard Gecko lifespan and what factors affects this by visiting her website http://www.leopardgeckoinformation.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lilly_Green
How long a leopard can live will depend on how they are kept in captivity. Leopards are tough and may cause only a few problems as a pet as long as they are provided with the proper tank size and temperature, food, and anything that they need to keep them stress- free and healthy.
Let's talk about the proper temperature that leopards need. Used a thermostat controlled heater to keep the temperature constant between 29 - 31 degrees Celsius during the day and 22 - 25 degrees Celsius during the night. They do not need UV light since leopards are nocturnal. To provide gecko's with adequate heat and light place a 40 - 60 watt or an infra red bulb at one end of the tank. Or hide boxes may be placed inside the aquarium with different temperatures, one to help the regulate body temperature and the other one is humid which will help them shed off its skin to avoid infections or even cause the leopards blindness. For example if the skin near its eye does not totally shed off and are neglected will infect the eyes and may eventually cause the blindness. More so, because of negligence of its temperature may even create diseases which may also lead to the shortening of its lifespan.
Feeding them with the proper diet will also help prolong the leopard gecko lifespan. Generally, they are insectivorous therefore feed the baby with small meal-worms and crickets in small amounts while the adult gecko may be provided with crickets, small cockroaches, fruit flies and other insects. Crickets that are gut loaded are best considered as its staple food. Geckos also consumes its shed skin which is high in nutrition so let it be and do not remove it inside the enclosure.
If all these factors are seriously considered then be assured that your gecko will live its maximum life span. The average life of a leopard sensibly depends not just on the food but also the environment which your gecko is kept plays a very important role. Most likely a gecko can be alive between 10 to 20 years in the wild but for lizards in captivity normally is between 8 - 10 years. However, with the proper care and feeding your pet in captivity may be stretched from 10 - 15 years and in some case may have lived up to 20 years, though this is a rare chance but is possible.
Needless to say, the ultimate factor of the leopard gecko lifespan is the person who keeps and takes care of its pet. The leopard's health relies on how the keeper put an effort in conscientiously doing what is needed to raise a healthy and vigorous gecko.
Lily Green loves caring for leopard geckos and wants to share some information coming from personal experiences. Learn more about Leopard Gecko lifespan and what factors affects this by visiting her website http://www.leopardgeckoinformation.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lilly_Green
Reptile Heaters and Vitamin Information
Reptile heaters are the first step in keeping your new turtle, snake, or lizard happy in their captive environment. However, with so many to choose from; people are often times overwhelmed when it comes to choosing the right one for their pet. Fortunately, with an expert hand in things you can easily find the right reptile heater for the type of reptile you own.
Some of the types of reptile heaters you have to choose from are:
Infa-red dull emitter (or ceramic heater)
Heat rocks (or hot rocks)
Combined light or heat sources IE: UV-B emitting light or heat sources.
Thermo tubes
Heat pads
Radiant heat panels
Safety heaters
With all of these different heater types, it is important to understand each thoroughly before making your decision. However, finding them can be fairly simple as any retailer that offers reptile or fish supplies will give you a massive selection of reptile heaters to choose from.
Reptile supplements and vitamins are a great way of ensuring your pet's overall health and wellness in captivity. While we may try our best to keep our reptiles healthy with food alone, there is no real way to emulate the vitamins and nutrients that they would get in their wild habitat in captivity. Fortunately, we have many different reptile supplements and vitamins to choose from these days.
You can find these supplements and vitamins at almost any store that caters to reptiles and fish. Not only can they be found locally, they can be found online as well; making it much easier for you to find them easily from the comfort of your own home.
Remember, before you put any animal on a supplement or vitamin it is important to consult with your local vet. You should see a vet whom specializes in the treatment of reptiles, so that they can better steer you in the right direction with which supplements to feed your animals.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Freeland
Some of the types of reptile heaters you have to choose from are:
Infa-red dull emitter (or ceramic heater)
Heat rocks (or hot rocks)
Combined light or heat sources IE: UV-B emitting light or heat sources.
Thermo tubes
Heat pads
Radiant heat panels
Safety heaters
With all of these different heater types, it is important to understand each thoroughly before making your decision. However, finding them can be fairly simple as any retailer that offers reptile or fish supplies will give you a massive selection of reptile heaters to choose from.
Reptile supplements and vitamins are a great way of ensuring your pet's overall health and wellness in captivity. While we may try our best to keep our reptiles healthy with food alone, there is no real way to emulate the vitamins and nutrients that they would get in their wild habitat in captivity. Fortunately, we have many different reptile supplements and vitamins to choose from these days.
You can find these supplements and vitamins at almost any store that caters to reptiles and fish. Not only can they be found locally, they can be found online as well; making it much easier for you to find them easily from the comfort of your own home.
Remember, before you put any animal on a supplement or vitamin it is important to consult with your local vet. You should see a vet whom specializes in the treatment of reptiles, so that they can better steer you in the right direction with which supplements to feed your animals.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_Freeland
Thinking About Getting an Iguana? Read These Tips Before You Make the Commitment
Iguanas are the most common lizard species to be kept as a pet. For someone looking for an alternative to your traditional dog or cat, they can be safely kept at home as long you follow the right guidelines.
Some people think that iguanas are low maintenance pets, however this is far from the truth. They are an exotic creature and you are taking them far from their natural habitat. So in order to have a a happy and healthy pet, you need to make sure you are 100% prepared. Here are a few tips for anyone considering keeping an iguana as a pet.
Finances
To look after an iguana properly you'll need to make certain financial commitments. You need to provide the right diet, a spacious habitat and also regular trips to the vet for a health checkup.
Commitment
Iguanas can live for up to 20 years in captivity. You need to think long and hard about buying such a pet. If you do it on a whim you will probably regret it later when you realize that your pet has become a life partner. You'll need to spend time with it so it can get used to your presence and eventually you will feel comfortable handling your iguana without fear of it escaping or running away.
Bear in mind too that if you are lucky enough to keep you pet healthy for a number of years, it's possible that it may grow very large. This means you will have to buy a bigger enclosure, feed it more often and also you need to be more careful about having young children and pets around as some large iguanas can become aggressive and difficult to tame.
Willingness to learn.
There are a lot of things that you can potentially get wrong when caring for an exotic pet such as iguana. If you are of a lazy temperament, and you;re not interested in the finer details your iguana's natural habits, then it's probably not the pet for you.
They have specific requirements when it comes to their diet. Some people think it's fine to feed them on dog food, but iguanas are hind-gut fermenters, which means they have a particular digestive makeup and you have to be very careful about what you feed them.
Generally iguanas are better off processing mainly vegetarian foods with the occasional insect. If you feed t mainly animal proteins, your pet may develop complications such as kidney stones.
They also have specific requirements for living. Being cold-blooded creatures, they need special heated lights in their enclosure for part of the day, otherwise they can easily fall ill due to bad circulation or exposure to the cold.
James L Crow writes is a online journalist who writes for a number of websites. His latest project is for a site where you can learn how to lose fat gain muscle fast.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=James_L_Crow
Leopard Gecko - Raising Healthy and Happy Geckos
You are about to embark on a journey that will be intriguing and exciting. Leopard geckos are becoming more and more popular because of their beauty and uniqueness, ease of care and breeding, and low maintenance. You will be able to create "designer" geckos if you choose to be a breeder along with being an owner.
The scientific name for a leopard gecko is "Eublepharis macularius." If you break down the name it means - eu = good, true; blephar = eyelid; macularius = spotted. Leopard geckos were originally found in Northwestern India, Afghanistan, and Pakistan.
People are attracted to these lizards because they are unique and the colors can be so vibrant. These geckos have continued to morph over time thus we are seeing more colors and patterns. There does not seem to be any limits on the patterns and colors that are morphing. With the creation of these leopard geckos comes a variety of names, names such as; las vegas (rainwater), bell albino, giant, carrot-tail tangerine, albino, red stripe, reverse stripe, mack snow, eclipse, patternless, and enigma.
If you have not purchased your first leopard gecko, find a reputable breeder or store that specializes in this type of gecko. It is important to find breeders who understand geckos and are not just about making money.
Here are some basic facts and information to know about geckos. Geckos, when they are mature, can range in size from 8 to 12 inches and can weigh from 60-100 grams. When you purchase a baby lizard, they will probably be about 3 inches long and weigh about 3 grams. Their preference is to live in the ground and are known as terrestrial. The lifespan of a leopard gecko, when properly cared for, can be as long as 20 years. There have been a few reported that are approaching 30 years. The majority of these lizards only live 2 years because of improper care.
Geckos require a specific type of environment to live a long life. The habitat needs to be the right size, have the right temperature, the right level of humidity, and the right food. All of this is important because your gecko will be shedding its skin, so the environment is important.
Most people will start with a 10 gallon vivarium for a single gecko. You would need to double that size if you decide to have up to 3 leopard geckos. Inside the vivarium, you will need to have shredded newspapers or paper towels. Some people have used sand but have found that baby geckos will ingest the sand and become impacted. It's best to use the newspapers or paper towels until they have grown to a length of 6 inches or longer. Then you can have sand in the vivarium. Include a shallow dish or container for water and a heat source.
Geckos favorite and most healthy food, are crickets - crickets that are commercially-raised for food. Also meal worms support a good and healthy diet. The key is to make sure your gecko is getting the proper nutrients and vitamins. You can tell if your gecko is healthy by the tail. If the tail is fat, your leopard gecko is being feed properly; if not, you will need to tweak their diet.
There is a lot more to learn about raising healthy, happy, and gorgeous leopard geckos. Take your time and do your research. The more you know, the more excited you will be about owning and breeding these geckos.
Jon learned the hard way (death of his first leopard gecko within 3 weeks) about the proper care, handling, and breeding of these lizards. Leopard geckos have a lifespan of 20 years if cared for properly. Start here today learning how to raise healthy, happy, beautiful geckos. Leopard Gecko Info, visit http://www.leopardgeckocaresite.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_Owens
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