The first thing to recognize about keeping a reptile at home is that they required well-ventilated surroundings with just the proper levels of dryness and moisture. Just like humans, your reptile will survive best in an environment in which they feel comfortable and sheltered.
When it comes to reptile supplies, their home is of profound importance. That means setting up a reptile tank that is spacious enough for when they get to their full size. Think how you would feel if you had to live in a room that was so small you couldn't even turn around or so big you never had the opportunity to feel warm and cozy. A reptile's home, be it a turtle, lizard, gecko or snake, needs a comfortable home to live a comfortable life.
Always try to make your reptile's tank reflect its natural habitat. That's why when researching reptile supplies it's important to discover where, in the wild, your reptile lives and what it would expect to have in its surroundings. The more at home it feels, the healthier it will be and the longer it should live.
Your tank can be made a glass or acrylic terrarium. Depending on the reptile you're getting, make sure that it's durable enough and tightly sealed so that the reptile cannot crawl out of their tank. Different reptiles require different temperatures within their environment so be sure to inquire how your tank should be heated and what specific temperature the tank should remain at. Additionally, the correct lighting is essential as is humidity and dryness. Should your reptile have light at certain times of the day? Should the light be on all the time? These are questions that good research will answer.
Lastly, it's important to position the tank in a place that gives them seclusion and also provides safety for the people around them. Some people are fearful of reptiles and don't like to be near them (let alone see them). Other people might want to touch your reptile and stick their hands in a tank when they shouldn't. That's why where you put your reptile's tank is almost as important as how you set it up.
Remember, getting reptile supplies may not always mean just choosing something off the shelf and setting your reptile inside. It also means to do some investigating about your reptile's natural habitat, what helps it survive and what makes it happy. A happy reptile is a healthy reptile.
When it comes to reptile supplies, it's important to gather as much information as possible. From food and exercise to the kind of reptile tank you get, the more you know about your new pet, the better the two of you will get along.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RJ_Price
Monday, August 16, 2010
Leopard Gecko Pets
If you want a great pet a Leopard Gecko is one of the best with their great personality all in one small package. If you look you can find a good Gecko Sale to save on money. They are originally from the hot dry places like Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Iran. Most of their day is spent in underground borrows and are mostly nocturnal.
When they live in their natural habitat they have very few different colors and patterns but with breeding in captivity there are hundreds or even thousands of different colors and patterns. Being small and their friendly temperament Leopard Geckos are a very good beginners reptile pet. Being easy to care for and their small size their entire life can be a happy one in a ten gallon aquarium. A couple of good things about having a Leopard Gecko for a pet is that they are very affordable and they don't take up very much room.
They can live up to thirty years if they have good care by using a few good rules and not making the mistakes that a new gecko pet owner could make. Lighting is one of the first important things, with mistakes being made very easily, by first time pet owners. They spend a good share of their day in underground burrows and come out at night to start hunting so keeping them in a area with bright lights will cause them to be very stressful. Some say UVB light is alright but it is still out for debate.
Get a very good under the tank heat pad to put under their tank and don't throw away your money buying a heat lamp which with the brightness will only be added stress. Some pads you can buy can be overly hot and can be bad for your gecko. A temperature gun is recommended to have the right temperature at any given part of the tank. These temperature guns are much better than the adhesive or digital prob thermometers because they can measure the temperature only at the spot they are placed and can be misleading.
Humidity is another very important thing for a gecko and this is easy to do with a small dish or may be Rubbermaid or Tupperware filled with paper towels that are wet, coco fibers that are moist, or sphagnum moss that is moist. Use only paper towels for baby geckos because the babies have a tendency to eat different things that might not be good for them.
To make the hiding place have a opening big enough for the gecko to get in and out of and whatever you use inside,paper towels, coco fibers, sphagnum moss, just make sure it is kept moist. Have the humidity hide right over the heat pad because without the heat you will have only a wet box. The heat makes the humidity and without the heat there is no humidity.
Don't make a mistake of buying a sand substrate because it looks great and tempting because this is not what a gecko in the wild lives on. Even though they say that the commercial sands are safe for geckos, even the calcium based sands, are not safe for geckos. Natural sand is round but processed sand has squared edges and can cause impaction if eaten or ingested some way. They will not be able to go to the bathroom and will have to have medical attention.
What do you use for substrate now that we know that sand is not to be used for your pet gecko. There are different things that can be used but the best substrate that I have found is reptile carpet. The reptile carpet is similar to felt and is designed for Leopard Gecko cage or tank. It can be purchased at about any pet store. If your little gecko messes on it all you have to do is rinse it off with hot water and use it again and again. There could be one slight problem with reptile carpet is that for very young geckos their toes can get caught in it so for young ones go ahead and use paper towels. This way your young one will not lose a toe and besides that they are cheap and easy to dispose of.
Dennis Killian
http://www.geckosale.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dennis_Killian
When they live in their natural habitat they have very few different colors and patterns but with breeding in captivity there are hundreds or even thousands of different colors and patterns. Being small and their friendly temperament Leopard Geckos are a very good beginners reptile pet. Being easy to care for and their small size their entire life can be a happy one in a ten gallon aquarium. A couple of good things about having a Leopard Gecko for a pet is that they are very affordable and they don't take up very much room.
They can live up to thirty years if they have good care by using a few good rules and not making the mistakes that a new gecko pet owner could make. Lighting is one of the first important things, with mistakes being made very easily, by first time pet owners. They spend a good share of their day in underground burrows and come out at night to start hunting so keeping them in a area with bright lights will cause them to be very stressful. Some say UVB light is alright but it is still out for debate.
Get a very good under the tank heat pad to put under their tank and don't throw away your money buying a heat lamp which with the brightness will only be added stress. Some pads you can buy can be overly hot and can be bad for your gecko. A temperature gun is recommended to have the right temperature at any given part of the tank. These temperature guns are much better than the adhesive or digital prob thermometers because they can measure the temperature only at the spot they are placed and can be misleading.
Humidity is another very important thing for a gecko and this is easy to do with a small dish or may be Rubbermaid or Tupperware filled with paper towels that are wet, coco fibers that are moist, or sphagnum moss that is moist. Use only paper towels for baby geckos because the babies have a tendency to eat different things that might not be good for them.
To make the hiding place have a opening big enough for the gecko to get in and out of and whatever you use inside,paper towels, coco fibers, sphagnum moss, just make sure it is kept moist. Have the humidity hide right over the heat pad because without the heat you will have only a wet box. The heat makes the humidity and without the heat there is no humidity.
Don't make a mistake of buying a sand substrate because it looks great and tempting because this is not what a gecko in the wild lives on. Even though they say that the commercial sands are safe for geckos, even the calcium based sands, are not safe for geckos. Natural sand is round but processed sand has squared edges and can cause impaction if eaten or ingested some way. They will not be able to go to the bathroom and will have to have medical attention.
What do you use for substrate now that we know that sand is not to be used for your pet gecko. There are different things that can be used but the best substrate that I have found is reptile carpet. The reptile carpet is similar to felt and is designed for Leopard Gecko cage or tank. It can be purchased at about any pet store. If your little gecko messes on it all you have to do is rinse it off with hot water and use it again and again. There could be one slight problem with reptile carpet is that for very young geckos their toes can get caught in it so for young ones go ahead and use paper towels. This way your young one will not lose a toe and besides that they are cheap and easy to dispose of.
Dennis Killian
http://www.geckosale.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dennis_Killian
The Pros & Cons of Owning A Pet Tree Frog
One of the more interesting exotic pets you could own is a frog. Many people do not know this, but pet frogs can come in a lot of different sizes and colors, and they can have different habitats making each type of frog unique. One species of frog you can keep as a pet, is a White's Tree Frog, which is also known as the Dumpy Tree Frog. These frogs come from Australia, Indonesia and New Guinea and, like their name suggests, generally lives among trees and plants.
When choosing first exotic pet or just your first pet of any type, a frog is the perfect choice, as they are generally very easy to look after and care for. This frog can grow to around 4-5 inches in length, meaning their home does not have to be extremely large. They are not a very active type of frog, and will usually sit for a long time staring into space. However, they are more of a nocturnal animal, meaning they will become more active during the night time.
White's Tree Frogs are very good around people, and even children. You can handle them and they will climb around you. They do however have very sensitive skin like all amphibians, so you must take extra care when handling them to make sure your hands are free of any nasty chemicals. These types of frogs can live for around 15 years, so make sure you are really dedicated when you are getting one as a pet.
Feeding them can be the most interesting part of owning frogs, getting to see them eat live animals like they would in the wild. Their main diet is crickets which must be alive for the frog to be interested in. So if you don't like the idea of keeping a box of insects in your house, then a pet frog might not be for you! Other insects these frogs can eat are beetles, cockroaches and grasshoppers. The amount you feed the frog depends entirely on the frog itself. Since they aren't a very active animal, a few crickets every 2 days should be enough.
A downside to owning this frogs is that, like all other animals, they can get diseases and illnesses which can be expensive to cure. However, keeping the frog in a good habitat, and feeding it a healthy diet should let it live a healthy life. One of the more common illnesses the frogs may get is stress which can be caused by over handling and their habitat, which is why you should try to allow the frogs to live as naturally as possible.
Overall, owning a pet frog such as the Whites Tree Frog can be very rewarding. This exotic pet isn't too much work to look after, but can be very interesting at the same time - especially at feeding time. If you aren't bothered about feeding the frogs live insects and you are dedicated to looking after it in its long life span then this is the perfect exotic animal for you.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
When choosing first exotic pet or just your first pet of any type, a frog is the perfect choice, as they are generally very easy to look after and care for. This frog can grow to around 4-5 inches in length, meaning their home does not have to be extremely large. They are not a very active type of frog, and will usually sit for a long time staring into space. However, they are more of a nocturnal animal, meaning they will become more active during the night time.
White's Tree Frogs are very good around people, and even children. You can handle them and they will climb around you. They do however have very sensitive skin like all amphibians, so you must take extra care when handling them to make sure your hands are free of any nasty chemicals. These types of frogs can live for around 15 years, so make sure you are really dedicated when you are getting one as a pet.
Feeding them can be the most interesting part of owning frogs, getting to see them eat live animals like they would in the wild. Their main diet is crickets which must be alive for the frog to be interested in. So if you don't like the idea of keeping a box of insects in your house, then a pet frog might not be for you! Other insects these frogs can eat are beetles, cockroaches and grasshoppers. The amount you feed the frog depends entirely on the frog itself. Since they aren't a very active animal, a few crickets every 2 days should be enough.
A downside to owning this frogs is that, like all other animals, they can get diseases and illnesses which can be expensive to cure. However, keeping the frog in a good habitat, and feeding it a healthy diet should let it live a healthy life. One of the more common illnesses the frogs may get is stress which can be caused by over handling and their habitat, which is why you should try to allow the frogs to live as naturally as possible.
Overall, owning a pet frog such as the Whites Tree Frog can be very rewarding. This exotic pet isn't too much work to look after, but can be very interesting at the same time - especially at feeding time. If you aren't bothered about feeding the frogs live insects and you are dedicated to looking after it in its long life span then this is the perfect exotic animal for you.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
The Orange Leopard Gecko Collection
Orange colored leopard geckos are now starting to emerge in the reptile population. Let me describe to you some of the collections and its characteristics.
Bright line bell albinos
Bright bells are characterized as exuding intense and vividly deep orange color of the body and head. Most of which posses a contrasting color patterns and markings of lavender, lime yellow, and maroon that enhances the depth of the majority of its color orange body and head. They also show the dorsal stripe that was developed by Albey Scholls. The stripes vary from one gecko to the other bright line geckos. The tangerine trait of this particular species will start to manifest when it reaches about 30 - 50 grams.
Nonetheless, as they age the bright orange coloration will also start to deteriorate but the good news is the color loss is only minimal.
Bright line is a cross bred of Dorsal Stripe Tangerine from Albey and Tangerine Bell Albinos.
Bright Bell Enigma Albinos
Bell Enigma is the result of the cross breeding of the best Bright line bell albinos with Tangerine Bell Enigma Albinos. The combination of these species certainly created a new stunning and attractive aberrant patterns and head markings.
They are characterized as having an intense color head pattern and markings along with the dorsal stripe from its parents. The Enigma traits do not only intensify the color but also came up with new unique features that are not found in non-enigma bright bells.
Hiss "Hybino" Bell Albinos
This is a product of breeding Kelli Hammack's Bell albinos which is described as possessing 85% carrot tail with a matching color of its body.
The hiss hybino can be identified by its strong orange body color with less or no body markings. They also have an extreme and full colored carrot tail. Hiss albino is another type of orange leopard gecko that most enthusiasts are fond of.
Red Stripe Bell Albinos
These geckos have beautiful lavender color surrounded with a well defined orange stripe. Most of the red stripe bells come in an intense shade of orange on its tails and heads. The orange stripe is often with a deeper shade of orange borderline exhibiting a more appealing contrast of lavender and orange.
Dorsal Stripe Tangerines
Dorsal stripes comes in vibrant and intensely deep orange body color in which a line with a light yellow orange color that runs through its dorsal. One good factor about these species is that they generally keep the intensity of its color throughout adulthood as well as throughout the breeding process. They seem not to dull much as they age which makes them more lovable.
There are more orange leopard gecko emerging from these species, find out more about these reptiles soon.
Lily Green has been caring for Leopard Geckos for over 15 years and is an author on the subject. It is her goal to see to it that Leopard Geckos are cared for properly. To get more useful tips about orange leopard gecko or get a copy of her FREE 'Leopard Gecko Care' mini-course feel free to visit her site at Leopard Gecko Information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lilly_Green
Bright line bell albinos
Bright bells are characterized as exuding intense and vividly deep orange color of the body and head. Most of which posses a contrasting color patterns and markings of lavender, lime yellow, and maroon that enhances the depth of the majority of its color orange body and head. They also show the dorsal stripe that was developed by Albey Scholls. The stripes vary from one gecko to the other bright line geckos. The tangerine trait of this particular species will start to manifest when it reaches about 30 - 50 grams.
Nonetheless, as they age the bright orange coloration will also start to deteriorate but the good news is the color loss is only minimal.
Bright line is a cross bred of Dorsal Stripe Tangerine from Albey and Tangerine Bell Albinos.
Bright Bell Enigma Albinos
Bell Enigma is the result of the cross breeding of the best Bright line bell albinos with Tangerine Bell Enigma Albinos. The combination of these species certainly created a new stunning and attractive aberrant patterns and head markings.
They are characterized as having an intense color head pattern and markings along with the dorsal stripe from its parents. The Enigma traits do not only intensify the color but also came up with new unique features that are not found in non-enigma bright bells.
Hiss "Hybino" Bell Albinos
This is a product of breeding Kelli Hammack's Bell albinos which is described as possessing 85% carrot tail with a matching color of its body.
The hiss hybino can be identified by its strong orange body color with less or no body markings. They also have an extreme and full colored carrot tail. Hiss albino is another type of orange leopard gecko that most enthusiasts are fond of.
Red Stripe Bell Albinos
These geckos have beautiful lavender color surrounded with a well defined orange stripe. Most of the red stripe bells come in an intense shade of orange on its tails and heads. The orange stripe is often with a deeper shade of orange borderline exhibiting a more appealing contrast of lavender and orange.
Dorsal Stripe Tangerines
Dorsal stripes comes in vibrant and intensely deep orange body color in which a line with a light yellow orange color that runs through its dorsal. One good factor about these species is that they generally keep the intensity of its color throughout adulthood as well as throughout the breeding process. They seem not to dull much as they age which makes them more lovable.
There are more orange leopard gecko emerging from these species, find out more about these reptiles soon.
Lily Green has been caring for Leopard Geckos for over 15 years and is an author on the subject. It is her goal to see to it that Leopard Geckos are cared for properly. To get more useful tips about orange leopard gecko or get a copy of her FREE 'Leopard Gecko Care' mini-course feel free to visit her site at Leopard Gecko Information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lilly_Green
Corn Snakes As Pets - The Pros & Cons
Pet owners have made snakes one of the more popular exotic pets. A snake in particular that is popular with beginners is the Corn Snake. They can be selectively bred, meaning they come in all sorts of different colors and patterns making it a very interesting animal to own.
One of the obvious advantages of owning a Corn Snake is the fact that its not poisonous, and will rarely bite its owner. Even if it does bite, their teeth are so small you probably will not notice it. They are a very docile animal, and usually do not mind being handled by humans. When you decide to buy your first one, you must dedicate a long time to it as they can live up to 20 years. They do not grow too large though, normally not more than 4 feet long.
Something you must be careful of when creating the pet snakes home, is that there are no places where the snake can get out of, as they are brilliant escape artists. Make sure their cage is quite large and has a properly fitted lid. Any time you take the lid off make sure to put it back securely as they can push this it off to escape. Also, the cage should contain somewhere the snake can hide, such as a box, which will make it feel secure.
Feeding a Corn Snake can be the most interesting part and not for the squeamish. They generally live off mice or small rats that have already been killed. Be sure not to feed too large a rat to smaller snakes as they will find it hard to consume. Also, they only need to be fed once a week. One of the downsides to feeding the snake dead mice and rats is that you have to keep them frozen, so you need to make sure everyone in the household is happy with that.
Like all living creatures, your pet snake will need water to survive. A bowl of water, that cannot be knocked over by the snake, is ideal. Also make sure the water is regularly changed. This type of snake is a hardy species and will not easily become ill, making them a very cost effective exotic pet. They both eat well and shed their skin well, which some snakes in captivity have problems with.
Although you might expect an exotic pet to be a good companion and have a relationship with its owner, this is not the case with snakes. Unlike dogs and other pet animals, they will not respond to you and might not always appreciate the attention you give them.
Even with that shortcoming the Corn Snake can make a very good exotic pet for first time owners. The many different patterns and colors make them very unique. They are extremely easy to care for and seem to enjoy being handled. A big plus is they will not bite your hand off or poison you like some other snakes or exotic animals.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
One of the obvious advantages of owning a Corn Snake is the fact that its not poisonous, and will rarely bite its owner. Even if it does bite, their teeth are so small you probably will not notice it. They are a very docile animal, and usually do not mind being handled by humans. When you decide to buy your first one, you must dedicate a long time to it as they can live up to 20 years. They do not grow too large though, normally not more than 4 feet long.
Something you must be careful of when creating the pet snakes home, is that there are no places where the snake can get out of, as they are brilliant escape artists. Make sure their cage is quite large and has a properly fitted lid. Any time you take the lid off make sure to put it back securely as they can push this it off to escape. Also, the cage should contain somewhere the snake can hide, such as a box, which will make it feel secure.
Feeding a Corn Snake can be the most interesting part and not for the squeamish. They generally live off mice or small rats that have already been killed. Be sure not to feed too large a rat to smaller snakes as they will find it hard to consume. Also, they only need to be fed once a week. One of the downsides to feeding the snake dead mice and rats is that you have to keep them frozen, so you need to make sure everyone in the household is happy with that.
Like all living creatures, your pet snake will need water to survive. A bowl of water, that cannot be knocked over by the snake, is ideal. Also make sure the water is regularly changed. This type of snake is a hardy species and will not easily become ill, making them a very cost effective exotic pet. They both eat well and shed their skin well, which some snakes in captivity have problems with.
Although you might expect an exotic pet to be a good companion and have a relationship with its owner, this is not the case with snakes. Unlike dogs and other pet animals, they will not respond to you and might not always appreciate the attention you give them.
Even with that shortcoming the Corn Snake can make a very good exotic pet for first time owners. The many different patterns and colors make them very unique. They are extremely easy to care for and seem to enjoy being handled. A big plus is they will not bite your hand off or poison you like some other snakes or exotic animals.
If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you need to go to Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Caring For an Outdoor Tortoise
Creating a Home for Your Tortoise in an Outside Enclosure
Even if you keep your pet in an inside enclosure most of the time it will appreciate some time spent outdoors (depending on the climate). If you live in a climate similar to the natural habitat of your tortoise you will be able to keep your it outside all year round providing you have a secure enclosure.
Outdoor Enclosure
As with an indoor home the size you need to provide will depend on the species of tortoise and how big it is, or will be. A 12 inch specimen will require a 3 square yard enclosure, approximately 9ft x 9ft.
Construction of an Outside Enclosure
If you choose a wooden structure firstly dig a trench at least 6 inches deep and 6 inches wide. The height of the walls should be at least twice the length of the tortoise. There should be a base of chicken wire fixed to the bottom of the structure and then buried. If you do not fix some form of base your pet will eventually burrow and may dig under the wooden walls and escape! Some keepers use concrete for the walls but you will still need to fix an escape proof bottom.
Don't build your enclosure using only chicken wire or your tortoise will be constantly trying to escape. Always provide a cover for the enclosure as protection from predators such as your dog or cat.
A Tortoise House
Your tortoise will need a house to live in inside the enclosure. This could be a wooden box elevated from the ground slightly. A good choice is to use a plastic doghouse as they don't leak or rot and they do hold the heat relatively well. Make sure the doorway does not have too pronounced a 'lip' or this may hamper him from entering and exiting. It may take some time for your tortoise to get used to being put into this new house. Keep placing him back inside and at night place inside and block the exit as there is more chance of predators at night. Your pet will soon learn to go into his new house voluntarily. Remember to unblock the door in the morning or he may overheat.
Substrate
Again you have a choice of materials to choose from for this job but remember you will have to clean it out regularly so choose one you feel happy buying or changing regularly. Bark is a very good substrate for outside enclosures as it is a natural product and is easy to clean and replace.
Heating
Supplemental heat for the outside enclosure is important if you live in a climate that is not similar to the tortoise's natural habitat. Place an incandescent light with a red bulb (for heat not light) over the top of the tortoise house.
Other Elements to Include
Water: All tortoises require water but make sure it is in a shallow dish that will not cause him to tip over.
Hiding places: You will need to provide places for your tortoise to hide away so that it does not become too stressed. Plant pots on their side (cleaned with no residue of fertilizer) Safe non-toxic plants and flowers will also provide some food as well as shade.
Rocks/Logs: Your tortoise will like to climb so place some rocks and logs inside the enclosure but make sure they are not too close to the enclosure walls as the tortoise may be able to gain escape if they are! Don't place anything made of plastic such as dogs chew toys or children's toys as the tortoise will bite on them and may become ill.
Burrowing: Provide something for your tortoise to dig and burrow into. He will be less likely to try to dig his way out under the walls if he has some material in which to dig. You will have to provide some soft sandy soil for your females to lay their eggs if you want to breed your tortoise?
Cleaning the Enclosure: You must keep your outside enclosure clean to prevent disease and parasites. Clean the waste food and excrement daily. Rake out the bark that may have been carried into the tortoise house. Provide clean water daily.
Above all if you are planning to care for an outdoor tortoise you should ensure the home you provide will be the best possible and safe environment for your pet. If you live in an area of the world conducive to your particular species living outside then this is all to the good. You still need to think very carefully about what sort of enclosure to build but if you do it properly you will have a very happy tortoise!
Is a tortoise enthusiast and has been keeping tortoises for many years. If you are interested to find out more about these amazing creatures go to TortoiseTips
If you want the best environment for your pet then you have to read the in-depth guide to keeping a tortoise outside http://tortoisetips.com/tortoise-housing/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear
Even if you keep your pet in an inside enclosure most of the time it will appreciate some time spent outdoors (depending on the climate). If you live in a climate similar to the natural habitat of your tortoise you will be able to keep your it outside all year round providing you have a secure enclosure.
Outdoor Enclosure
As with an indoor home the size you need to provide will depend on the species of tortoise and how big it is, or will be. A 12 inch specimen will require a 3 square yard enclosure, approximately 9ft x 9ft.
Construction of an Outside Enclosure
If you choose a wooden structure firstly dig a trench at least 6 inches deep and 6 inches wide. The height of the walls should be at least twice the length of the tortoise. There should be a base of chicken wire fixed to the bottom of the structure and then buried. If you do not fix some form of base your pet will eventually burrow and may dig under the wooden walls and escape! Some keepers use concrete for the walls but you will still need to fix an escape proof bottom.
Don't build your enclosure using only chicken wire or your tortoise will be constantly trying to escape. Always provide a cover for the enclosure as protection from predators such as your dog or cat.
A Tortoise House
Your tortoise will need a house to live in inside the enclosure. This could be a wooden box elevated from the ground slightly. A good choice is to use a plastic doghouse as they don't leak or rot and they do hold the heat relatively well. Make sure the doorway does not have too pronounced a 'lip' or this may hamper him from entering and exiting. It may take some time for your tortoise to get used to being put into this new house. Keep placing him back inside and at night place inside and block the exit as there is more chance of predators at night. Your pet will soon learn to go into his new house voluntarily. Remember to unblock the door in the morning or he may overheat.
Substrate
Again you have a choice of materials to choose from for this job but remember you will have to clean it out regularly so choose one you feel happy buying or changing regularly. Bark is a very good substrate for outside enclosures as it is a natural product and is easy to clean and replace.
Heating
Supplemental heat for the outside enclosure is important if you live in a climate that is not similar to the tortoise's natural habitat. Place an incandescent light with a red bulb (for heat not light) over the top of the tortoise house.
Other Elements to Include
Water: All tortoises require water but make sure it is in a shallow dish that will not cause him to tip over.
Hiding places: You will need to provide places for your tortoise to hide away so that it does not become too stressed. Plant pots on their side (cleaned with no residue of fertilizer) Safe non-toxic plants and flowers will also provide some food as well as shade.
Rocks/Logs: Your tortoise will like to climb so place some rocks and logs inside the enclosure but make sure they are not too close to the enclosure walls as the tortoise may be able to gain escape if they are! Don't place anything made of plastic such as dogs chew toys or children's toys as the tortoise will bite on them and may become ill.
Burrowing: Provide something for your tortoise to dig and burrow into. He will be less likely to try to dig his way out under the walls if he has some material in which to dig. You will have to provide some soft sandy soil for your females to lay their eggs if you want to breed your tortoise?
Cleaning the Enclosure: You must keep your outside enclosure clean to prevent disease and parasites. Clean the waste food and excrement daily. Rake out the bark that may have been carried into the tortoise house. Provide clean water daily.
Above all if you are planning to care for an outdoor tortoise you should ensure the home you provide will be the best possible and safe environment for your pet. If you live in an area of the world conducive to your particular species living outside then this is all to the good. You still need to think very carefully about what sort of enclosure to build but if you do it properly you will have a very happy tortoise!
Is a tortoise enthusiast and has been keeping tortoises for many years. If you are interested to find out more about these amazing creatures go to TortoiseTips
If you want the best environment for your pet then you have to read the in-depth guide to keeping a tortoise outside http://tortoisetips.com/tortoise-housing/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ellie_Bear
The 5 Golden Rules of Caring For a Green Iguana
Golden rules is a name we give to special rules that you should always remember and never forget. When it comes to caring for a green iguana, these rules are extremely important and useful guideposts to help you keep on course and going in the right direction. Your ultimate goal, of course, is to have a happy and healthy pet iguana.
Here are the 5 Golden Rules to properly take care of a green iguana.
Golden Rule # 1, Maintain the proper cage temperature. The reason for this is iguanas can't stay healthy if their habitat temperature isn't correct. If they get too cool, they can't digest their food, and can slowly starve to death. Remember, always maintain the proper temperature as part of your iguana's habitat.
Golden Rule # 2, Keep up the proper humidity. This can is also very important, because iguanas come from hot, humid climates and need a high humidity to avoid dehydration. Be sure and remember that while iguanas don't always drink a lot of water, they do like having a tub or pool of water they can soak in.
Golden Rule # 3, Feed your iguana the appropriate diet.. There's good reasons you'll want to do this. Among them is that even though your iguana may be eating lots of food, if it's not the best food, they could still die of malnutrition - the #1 source of death in pet iguanas.
Golden Rule # 4, Give your iguana lots of space. They must have room to maneuver, stretch out and climb, so make certain that the habitat you have is large enough for your iguana.. You can accomplish this by building an outdoor habitat if you reside in a warmer climate, or giving it a spare room or garage in your house. Also, let your iguana out of its cage to roam around your house. They love to stretch their legs, too.
Golden Rule # 5, Make sure your iguana receives enough Ultra violet rays. Ways to achieve this step include allowing it to sit outside on a sunny days and by attaching UV lights to the cage.. You'll want to do this carefully. It is a matter of life and death for your iguana. Without the proper Ultra violet rays, they can't process calcium and can end up with bone disease.
Rely on these Golden Rules to properly take care of your pet green iguana. Follow them and you'll ultimately find that you have much more success raising a happy and healthy green iguana.
Discover even more ways to keep your iguana healthy and happy by going to our iguana as pet web site at iguanaaspet.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lizzie_Blount
Here are the 5 Golden Rules to properly take care of a green iguana.
Golden Rule # 1, Maintain the proper cage temperature. The reason for this is iguanas can't stay healthy if their habitat temperature isn't correct. If they get too cool, they can't digest their food, and can slowly starve to death. Remember, always maintain the proper temperature as part of your iguana's habitat.
Golden Rule # 2, Keep up the proper humidity. This can is also very important, because iguanas come from hot, humid climates and need a high humidity to avoid dehydration. Be sure and remember that while iguanas don't always drink a lot of water, they do like having a tub or pool of water they can soak in.
Golden Rule # 3, Feed your iguana the appropriate diet.. There's good reasons you'll want to do this. Among them is that even though your iguana may be eating lots of food, if it's not the best food, they could still die of malnutrition - the #1 source of death in pet iguanas.
Golden Rule # 4, Give your iguana lots of space. They must have room to maneuver, stretch out and climb, so make certain that the habitat you have is large enough for your iguana.. You can accomplish this by building an outdoor habitat if you reside in a warmer climate, or giving it a spare room or garage in your house. Also, let your iguana out of its cage to roam around your house. They love to stretch their legs, too.
Golden Rule # 5, Make sure your iguana receives enough Ultra violet rays. Ways to achieve this step include allowing it to sit outside on a sunny days and by attaching UV lights to the cage.. You'll want to do this carefully. It is a matter of life and death for your iguana. Without the proper Ultra violet rays, they can't process calcium and can end up with bone disease.
Rely on these Golden Rules to properly take care of your pet green iguana. Follow them and you'll ultimately find that you have much more success raising a happy and healthy green iguana.
Discover even more ways to keep your iguana healthy and happy by going to our iguana as pet web site at iguanaaspet.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lizzie_Blount
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